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Free For All  
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Free For All  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Josh Mucci and Jeff Scheuerell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 848
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 18, 2011
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Josh going for his redpoint on Free for All
Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


This climb is a lot of fun. It starts with a direct variation to the Center Route. The second pitch startes up the Center Route but stays in the arching seam/corner instead of traversing lower down. It then meets back up with the Center Route higher up. There are 2 bolts and chains at the top of the first pitch and a single 60m rope will get you down. If you do the second pitch you will need to continue to the top of the Center Route or leave webbing around the tree of the second pitch belay.


Between Stonequest and The Chase


Draws, runners, lite rack w/small micro nuts and cams. There is also an altrnate/more comfortable belay just past the tree belay for the second pitch but it requires cams in the 3.5-4 Camalot size.

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Nice job Jeff! The route is really good. As many other routes you guys developed recently at Parkline Slab .
BTW, what is new super slick (5.11?) slab route just left from Eyes of Beholder? and one more next to it (5.10+ ?). They merge to the same anchor and well bolted...

By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 22, 2011

I think you are refering to Fly By 11a in Reid guide but I think it's harder and the route to the right of it is the Hawaiian 10a in the guide but also harder. The Hawaiian has two starts. The right is harder. You can belay at a ledge or link the second pitch. The routes are not new but we did replace the 1/4 bolts with donations from ASCA.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 28, 2011

We climbed the first pitch, super fun with positive holds throughout and good movement. Good pitch for a novice leader, bolted closely.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A 60 meter rope will not get you down from the first anchor unless you and your belayer are willing to belay and lower to the small little pinnacle about 10 feet up the wall to the left of the start of the first pitch. My 70 meter had about 5-7 feet of tail left when I lowered to the actual ground.

I have only done the first pitch, but it climbs really nice with a lot of positive edges; maybe 5.8 at most. Unless you want to run it out 25-30 feet between the last bolt and the angle piton that protects the finish, you will want a 0.3 Camalot or equivalent.

By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Josh Mucci, Jeff Scheuerell, 1/11

By Art Cormier
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Climed the route on teh 25th durring a break in a light rain. there was enough friction to feel confident. nice moves on small features are the crux. well protected with draws and one nut placement.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Hi Jeff,

I'm sort of surprised that the pin fell out, because if I recall correctly, that was a pretty substantially sized angle. Any chance that you will put a bolt in instead so that the pin does not need to be replaced every few years?

Thanks for the route upkeep.
Cheers man.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Jan 10, 2013

A bolt is now in place instead of the pin...happy climbing.