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Upper Capitalist Crag
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Free Enterprise 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Richard Wright, 1993
Page Views: 894
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 14, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Free Enterprise.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The left most route, Free Enterprise follows a small corner system for a couple of clips at 5.11 and then fires straight through the roof. A space of 5.11d/5.12a comes in pulling the roof and moving up the corner above the roof. Things run out a bit at the top on frictional climbing at 5.9.


Protection 

Bring a 50 m rope and 7 -8 draws. There is a double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Free Enterprise Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin heading into the crux.
Kevin heading into the crux.
Out of the crux and onto easier ground.
Out of the crux and onto easier ground.
Comments on Free Enterprise Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 15, 2004

Don't worry, after your above the crux, it's more like 5.6. Relax and shake out....

By Anonymous Coward
May 18, 2004

Much easier for taller climbers. I'm 6'0 with a 6'4 span, and I could get the crimp above the crux without doing any other feet.... I feel that this route deserves a mentionable high-dependent crux, going at 11c for someone my size.

By richard magill
Sep 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Felt like 12a to me! Really fun, nice and steep, with a series of good moves on clean stone. Verging on 3 stars!

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Good route, steep with a good rest before the crux. Felt like .12a to me too.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 17, 2011

Clipping that second bolt at the crux (assuming the draws aren't pre-hung) would be *much* easier if you're tall. I'm 5'6" and I couldn't clip it from the juggy holds at the lip. I had to clip it in the middle of the crux moves. Used a lot of energy. Good route, deserves two and half stars.

By Mark E Dixon
From: Sprezzatura, Someday
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The slab at the third bolt has cleaned up a little, and I wouldn't call it crumbly any more.