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(4) Spring Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Free Bird S 
Ground Effects S 
Jumping Jack Thrash T,TR 
Short Circuit S 
Short Fuse T,S 
Spring, The T 
Toe Cleavage T,S 

Free Bird 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA 11/8/87 by Wayne Wallace
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: another Chad on Oct 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Free Bird


Near the center of Spring Rock is a strenuous double tiered roof climb. Free Bird takes on both roofs although the crux is moving between the two. Unfortunately the (easier) top section is mossy and tends to hold moisture.


Near the center of Spring Rock. Free Bird can easily be top-roped by running up Toe Cleavage, which shares the anchor.


Four bolts plus Metolius Rap hangers at the anchor. There's a vertical slot in between the first and second bolts (not visible in picture) that will take a #.75 C4. The run-out to the anchor can be naturally protected but if you've made it through the rest of Free Bird it's unlikely that you will fall on this relatively easy section.

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By Nate Ball
From: Taipei, TW
Oct 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I feel the natural line goes out the mini-roof and joins Toe Cleavage. As it is, you step right to easy, dirty ledges. This would be a 3-star route if finished directly (minor run-out).