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West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)
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Twinkletoes T 

Fred 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Charles Cole and Randy Vogel, 1981
Page Views: 3,576
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Phil contemplating the last 18 ft to the anchors.

Description 

This climb has a terrific variety of novel climbing on fantastic rock. Steep face moves, barndoor liebacking, and a runout mantle will help you remember the first pitch. Rappel from here, or continue up past three bolts to easier ground.

Protection 

bolts and small gear


Photos of Fred Slideshow Add Photo
Working the first bolt crux
Working the first bolt crux

Comments on Fred Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 11, 2006
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Certainly a standard for the grade of 5.11- face climbing. This is no give-away as it is cerebral and somewhat sustained. Originally rated 10d
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006

I seem to remember the rock being quite smooth in the upper reaches of P1. An excellent technical exercise.
By Brandon R.
Sep 17, 2006

The second pitch looks good, but the bolts are pretty old. It'd be great if some kind soul with bolting skills replaced them.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 12, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I'll go with the Original rating 10d but can feel harder at times.As for the pro.The bolts have needed replacement for sometime.Maybe this summer.
By EliotAC
From: La Jolla
Sep 7, 2009

The second pitch bolts still look pretty sketchy. On the first pitch be solid on multiple mantles 5-10 feet above bolts. Good planning is required to move through sustained moves. 5 star classic in my book.
By Souljah
From: Northern NM
Feb 2, 2010

Got crossed-up in the left trending .10c section on P-1. Lunged big-time and stuck the horizontal with a couple tips - Whew! - mantled-up and made the belay with my hair on fire. We enjoyed both pitches.

Rated .10d at the time.
By Muff
May 10, 2011

The beginning of this route requires a super tiny cam. Silver TCU or Black Diamond 00 or 000. Otherwise don't mess up! Climbed this thing in the rain and heavy fog last weekend. What an experience!
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Jan 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Brass nut for low, doesn't "require" tiny cams, unless the crack has changed in the last 15 years. A green Alien goes in perfect a little higher.

Watch the sun angle or you'll be blinded making for the mantle at the top of the first pitch.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

This route certainly keeps your attention. The upper bolts are pretty run out. I would recommend being pretty solid at sustained .10+ climbing before leading this. It is definitely a cerebral climb; there isn't much given to you and the cruxes are sequency. I certainly wouldn't want to fall on any of the mantles. After the first bolt I ran it about 12 feet and placed a tiny brass nut. I ran it about 15 feet above the nut before getting to the second bolt, and had to mantle to clip it. Not much pro options between the first and second bolt, believe me I was looking. The climbing eased up after I placed the nut however, so it was a good spot to just go for it. I wasn't stoked on taking a huge fall on that tiny brass nut. My first brass nut at the bottom of the climb popped out when I was at the first bolt, which wasn't confidence inspiring. I had it backed up with a black alien placed above the nut. There is a good potential for a 25 foot + fall on the upper section of this; that's why I gave it the PG13 rating. I didn't fall, but if you get flipped around in your rope in the air, you could get hurt. Anyone who has taken a 20 foot fall on slab knows how good it feels on the bottoms of your feet when you impact the wall... Falling while mantling can be tricky. No R rating because the falls look clean. Just big. One of my proudest onsights for sure. Very mental. That being said, the movement is excellent. Total classic. Note: I didn't have or place any C3's on this climb. They might take the place of that tiny brass nut I placed.