One of the best routes at Little Falls and listed at 5.10+ in the old guidebook, Fred P. Jones is a great, steep, sustained route, probably in the low 5.11 range. The lower section is the route's technical crux, climbing through good crimps to gain a big horizontal jug "rest." The top half of the route gets progressivly more overhanging with big moves through good-but-not-great holds.
The large, concave face towards the east end of the island, Fred P. Jones is easily identified by the big horizontal splitting it at half height.
TR off two old bolts; back them up with a long extension to a tree.