A tricky crux past a bulge down low can be bypassed by cheating left to the arete. The best part of the route is above this in the steep, beautiful finishing slab, finessing moves between small pockets.
Just left of License To Bolt (which has ring bolts) and right of the shallow dihedral.
Bolts with top rap anchors.
|By James Traub|
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
This is a great climb! I have yet to do License to Bolt, but I have done the rest of the climbs on the Phoenix and this is definitely my favorite. The moves flow well and don't feel contrived. Only possible downside is that the route feels a tad runout, especially towards the top.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jun 9, 2008
I liked this climb too. Didn't feel like I was cheating by moving left down low. The select guide says the bottom moves wander a bit so I followed the holds. The route to the right has glue ins. Also really liked the upper face.
Jun 19, 2013
great route. the crux is way more fun go straight up
although seems way harder than cheating left and using the juggy pockets there, once you are committed to the smaller holds, its not that hard
|By Bryan Hall|
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013
Great route on solid rock. Fun crux and then enjoyable climbing afterwards!