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 ADVANCED
Cabin Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 
Better Left Undone T 
Cowboy Justice T 
Four-Wheel Low T 
Fred and Barney's Crack T 
Junk Corner T 
Left Horseshoe Finger T 
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 
Rednekk Justus T 
Right Horseshoe Finger T 
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 
S Crack T 
TH Crack T 
Three Blocks T 
Unknown Awkward T 
Unknown Finger Crack T 
Unknown Fingers T 
Unknown Flake T 
Willy's Hand Jive T 

Fred and Barney's Crack 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Shallow.

Description 

This is a good route on great rock that offers varied climbing. Start with tight hands through a small bulge to gain the awkward dihedral and move out past the wide, small roof.


Location 

The route is at the top of the trail leading to the buttress. It is 200 feet to the climber's right of Rednekk Justus.


Protection 

Doubles or triples of #1s, #2s. Triples of #3. Single of #4. There are anchors on the ledge. Extend your anchor past lip if toproping.



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By slim
Administrator
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fred and Barney's Crack. I think original Desert Rock gave it 5.10. My notes say 10c. A good, friendly intro to climbing at Escalante.

By jeffro popko
From: montrose,co
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The roof turn on this one gives it the third star, very exciting when you're already pumped.

By Mitch Musci
Oct 13, 2012

This is a fantastic climb, but the pro mid-pitch is behind a detached flake for at least 2 consecutive placements. Not a great choice for those breaking into 5.10, but it is nonetheless a worthy line with cool movement.