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Freckles and No Lipstick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 688
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Climbs bolts up face/cracks to anchors.

Location 

5 feet right (downhill) from Ten B at a face with seams and a bolt 12 feet up.

Protection 

Bolts, standard rack


Comments on Freckles and No Lipstick Add Comment
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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 20, 2012

Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 26, 2012

I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 23, 2012

I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 28, 2012

Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of: mountainproject.com/v/the-dike...

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 29, 2012

I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 5, 2012

TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 28, 2012

I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.