Freckles and No Lipstick 

Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....

I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks.

I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it.

Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of: www.mountainproject.com/v/the-dike/107564790

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows.

I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.

TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on.

I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.