Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Lost T
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
CB Love Grannys T 
Coach and Mary T,TR 
Courtney Marie's Boobies T 
Crimps Are For Pimps T 
Dike, The T 
Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 
Expiration 66 T 
Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap T 
Five Star Crack T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Freckles and No Lipstick T 
Keegans 5.8 T 
Keyhole, The T 
Little Kisses T 
Mean Sister T,TR 
Parthenope T 
Spelunking Midget T 
Ten B T 
Unnamed T 
Waiting for the Sun T 
Wide Crack T 

Freckles and No Lipstick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 807
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Climbs bolts up face/cracks to anchors.


5 feet right (downhill) from Ten B at a face with seams and a bolt 12 feet up.


Bolts, standard rack

Comments on Freckles and No Lipstick Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Apr 20, 2012

Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know.....
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 26, 2012

I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks.
By Jim Lawyer
May 23, 2012

I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 28, 2012

Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of:

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows.
By Jim Lawyer
May 29, 2012

I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 5, 2012

TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 28, 2012

I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.

Edit - ah ha! That's because it's not 5.9 any longer (a hold had broken off).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!