Freckle Face 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Alan Nelson 1-1983. Lead: (right start) Jonny Woodward 1987. Lead: (original start) Alan Nelson 1989. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 4, 2007 |
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Robby Beno on Freckle Face 5.11a
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Description This route starts off the left side of a boulder/ledge at the base of the wall, and climbs the nice face between "Jugular Vein" and "Do or Dike".
The first lead went straight up to the second bolt. Now it is led to the left.
A line of holds goes up excellent grey rock to a fairly new looking bolt. Move up and right to another bolt. Steep climbing up freckled rock passes two more bolts. The crux is after the last bolt.
There is a two bolt anchor on top.
There is a mystery bolt in the middle of three hairline dikes, down and left of the start.
Protection Draws.
BETA PHOTO: "Freckle Face".
Photo by Blitzo.
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The freckles.
Photo by Blitzo.
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Mystery bolt.
Photo by Blitzo.
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By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.11- PG13
| From the last bolt, aiming to the right of the bolt anchor is plenty easier than climbing directly to it. This route is pushing "R" with the old leeper hangers on the upper 3 bolts. |
By Richard Shore
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.11a
| One-move thin crux leads to long and steep 5.10 jug haul.
It's a little exposed getting to the anchors if TR-ing - I wouldn't recommend leading it on those rusty Leeper hangers. |
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