Start up Enchilada A La Carte for the first three bolts 12-, the head straight up insted of following the left leaning weakness. The first few moves off the seam involve a tough sequence of powerful crimper lockoffs to a desperate toss to a marginal sloper (12+ish). Make a clip off a shitty slopper pinch, then enter the crux. A series of desperate pulls off slopers at 30 degrees overhanging. This follows for two bolts (roughly V10). Unlike Tuffnerd, this route lacks a decent rest before its pumpy headwall. Finish on sustained 5.12 for the last 5 bolts.
Second left leaning weakness from the right.
bolts. There is a midway anchor at the 5th.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 16, 2009
Great send Ryan!