Freaker's Ball  5.8 R

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Andrew Gomoll, Sandra Horna, Larry DeAngelo Submitted By:  Larry DeAngelo on Jun 4, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Freaker's Ball

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Description 

From the start of Dodgeball, scramble up a hundred or two feet of third class to a belay at the base of the main corner. Rope up here. The corner immediately becomes an interesting, smooth squeeze chimney. Shortly above the chimney, the main corner branches, with a smaller, subsidiary corner splitting off to the left. Pull over a small bulge and climb the left-facing corner to a small stance at its top.

Continue up the corner system with much questionable rock. Above a short offwidth section, the crack ends beneath a towering fin of rock. The faint of heart or strong of mind might take this opportunity to step right and continue up the right-facing corner near the top of Dodgeball. The alternative is face climbing directly above on the runout slab. This would be a thought-provoking lead even if the rock were solid and the lichen absent. In light of the actual conditions, the lead is positively engrossing. Above the fin, climb up and right on easy terrain to the top of the buttress. Descend as for Dodgeball.

Location 

This route is up and left from the main Lotta Balls Wall, on the left side of the buttress with Kick in the Balls and Dodgeball.

Protection 

Std rack, plus nerves of steel

Photos of Freaker's Ball Slideshow

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Entering the initial squeeze chimney.	This snug slot is an entertaining place to bring y...	Above the squeeze chimney, the route bears left in...