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Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
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Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
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Hound Dog S 
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Purpose, The T,S 
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Wrinkles T 

Freak on a Leash 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Steve Sangdahl & Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 1,779
Submitted By: Ken Younge on Jul 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This route starts up Hound Dog for 40 feet and then cuts sharp-left and then up to a difficult headwall. Extend several of the middle bolts with shoulder-length slings to cut down on rope drag - you'll need to shave off every possible ounce to levitate those feet. The crux is devious (and a bit height-dependent) - many climbers try it a few times and give up because it seems improbable. The route is a hidden gem, though - it is off the normal circuit, on excellent rock, has fun moves, and is a very aesthetic line. It's a stiff "Bell Buttress" 5.12d - quite a bit harder than many 5.13a routes in Boulder Canyon.

Location 

This is on the left side of Bell Buttress, at a mini-alcove with a tree flush against the wall.

Protection 

13 bolts (+ 2 at the anchors = 15 total).


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By Joe Collins
Jul 29, 2008

Not only is this harder than many Boulder Canyon 13a's, it is most likely harder than EVERY Boulder Canyon 13a. I have heard that one local, who has sent several 5.14s, thought it was mid-5.13. Given its difficulty and severely sandbagged grade, I really wonder how many redpoints this route has actually seen. Excellent climbing though.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 31, 2008

Glad to hear it. I went at it a few times before I gave up. Thought it was over my head. Usually I can work out 5.12 moves with some effort, unless they are very thin slopers. But in this case, no, not at all.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Aug 5, 2008

YO, sorry if this seems underrated but both Chip and myself are old school and did not feel like it was harder than 12d (i.e. if we could do it it was not 5.13). The route was Chip's idea. When I finally did it, I lightened my load by leading it on a 9mil rope. Fun, devious crux, don't clip the last 2 bolts until after you do the crux.
By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

---Begin rant---
At 5'6", this route felt mid-13 to me. Maybe it's a bit easier if you are a lot taller, I don't know. I'm a bit annoyed with the grade on MP, if it takes a "12d" climber "special" tricks to send, then it isn't a 12d. Sport climbing has moved far beyond 5.12, there really isn't any need to sandbag at this grade.
---End rant---

The meat of the route is very short lived: two 1 move boulder problems (albeit with some bumping & foot moves) between a bolt high up (3rd from the top) on the route, and you don't really carry pump into it. As with other routes at this crag, it's quite condition-dependent (cool & dry preferred). I found a bad hand jam & a right knee scum, so consider bringing your arsenal for that (not critical).