Freak of the Week  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Bill Robins, FFA Jim Yoder Submitted By:  Ethan Henderson on Dec 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Plugging black aliens at the start

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Description 

Start up a dihedral like feature face climbing and using the very thin crack for protection.

Pull over the easy roof/bulge this will deposit you on a small ledge.

From this ledge continue up the thin crack using jams, face holds and laybacks. There are plenty of good rests/stances along the way. About 2/3 of the way up this you will encounter the crux moves which involve a layback/jam and some face moves.

Location 

Before you hit the "main" part of the wall look for a small roof leading to a very thin crack with a chain anchor on top.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5" mostly smaller.

Make sure to include micro cams (black/blue Alien)

Chain anchor (Easily reached from above to TR/Rap)