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 ADVANCED
(6) Main Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2Trad4U T,S 
Freak Freely T 
Happy Crack T 
Hollow Victory T 
Lonesome Winner, The T 
Oracle T 
Solid Gold T 
Urbaby's Daddy T 
Wushu Roof T 
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Freak Freely 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Coe and Jim Opdycke 4/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Freak Freeky

Description 

This route is located just right of the 3 obvious bolts of LONESOME WINNER. Start up left of the main crack line and then traverse 5' right below a small roof. Follow the main crack feature through its various contortions to a flake. Move up and slightly right pulling on good holds (crux) past the flake and into a dihedral groove. Continue up the groove and either:

(a) step left to the LONESOME WINNER anchors

or

(b) continue up further and traverse right to the anchors above URBABY'S DADDY.

The original line continued to the top of the cliff and used a tree belay and a walk off.


Protection

Microcams .4-.75" range, doubles in .6"
Cams .5-1.25"
1 set of nuts

Protection 

Small gear to 1"


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By Topher Dabrowski
5 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

CONDITION REPORT 
A few loose and one particular large loose block exists and until cleared this route should be avoided.
By Topher Dabrowski
5 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

The gear on this route is a bit tricky in some places and the first piece of pro is currently 20' up. The rock on the way up to that piece can be somewhat fragile as I experienced a foot hold that unexpectedly broke off. I managed to catch myself with one hand and luckily avoided a ground fall.

The route had a number of loose blocks before the crux that need to be addressed. The climbing up to the crux is about 5.9

We climbed with the following rack as this route has plenty of small placements and took the second option of traversing to Urbaby's Daddy's anchors. The traverse is well protected but this route might get its own anchors in the future.

Camalot/X4 Sizes
One each from 0.1 - 1.0
Doubles 0.2, 0.3, 0.4
1 Set of Nuts


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