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(6) Main Cliff
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2Trad4U T,S 
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Freak Freely 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Coe and Jim Opdycke 4/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski and 3 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Freak Freeky


This route is located just right of the 3 obvious bolts of LONESOME WINNER.

Start up left of the main crack line and then traverse 5' right below a small roof. An optional direct start can be protected from the ground with a small nut and "ups" the grade a notch or two. Regardless how you get started, follow the main crack feature through its various contortions to a large flake. Move up and slightly right pulling on good holds past the flake and into a dihedral groove. Continue up the groove and directly up to the top anchors.

The original line continued to the top of the cliff and used a tree belay and a walk off.


Microcams .4-.75"
Cams .5-1.25"
1 set of nuts

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By Topher Dabrowski
May 25, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first piece of pro is currently 20' up. The rock on the way up to that piece can be somewhat fragile as I experienced a foot hold that unexpectedly broke off. I managed to catch myself with one hand and luckily avoided a ground fall.

The climbing up to the crux is about 5.9 and we climbed with the following rack as this route has plenty of small placements.

Camalot/X4 Sizes
One each from 0.2 - 1.0, 4.0
1 Set of Nuts

The direct start is a good boulder problem and with a solid small nut placement that can be made from the ground (if you are tall enough) you can keep yourself off the ground.
By bryans
Jun 10, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

It's been 4-5 years, but I remember sketching through the first 20 feet also, sliding in a tiny cam or nut at best. It's spooky because the climbing doesn't seem like it will be hard, but ends up being pretty sustained and insecure as the ground gets farther away. Not saying it needs a bolt, but it's pretty heads-up. I also thought the loose blocks detracted - can they be trundled with a crowbar? Finally, I remember the traverse left being unpleasant - would be nice to have an anchor before the traverse. These are the reasons I gave the route a bomb - can't really recommend it in its current state, but with some cleaning and a direct anchor I would do it again.
By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 15, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Today a set of top anchors and rap rings was added to the route. No more weird traverse to adjacent route's anchors to get down. I have jumped on the bigger blocks and nothing is moving so I'd say it is good to go. We also did a bunch of gardening and pruning as well.

You are welcome!
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