Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Snickers - North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bakersfield 
Crime of the Century 
Don't Think Just Jump 
Frankenwood 
Fresno 
Funny Bone 
Humerous 
Joyride 
Knightshift 
Mrs. Carvey Danison 
Norwegian Wood 
Ridiculous Finish, The 
Thunderwood 
Time in the Penitentiary (aka: Two Flew the Coop) 
Ulnar Nerve 
Way of Life 

Frankenwood 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: David Evans on Jan 1, 2002
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The tall man sequence.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The route starts with bouldery moves up a slightly right leaning dihedral. Pro looks a little awkward to place in the thin crack of the dihedral. Continue up easy scrambling moves to the base of a dike/lieback crack just left of a very easy finish. Lieback the crack past a crystal knob and a face move to the top. Easily TR'ed off the convenience anchor found at the top. Definitely worth climbing but maybe without the stress of being on lead!


Protection 

Standard rack to 2"



Photos of Frankenwood Slideshow Add Photo
Yes, the arete has holds!
Yes, the arete has holds!
"Stahl Brother" Todd in action.
"Stahl Brother" Todd in action.
Comments on Frankenwood Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Don't bother with this one.

By Drederek
Apr 6, 2009

Climbed the great crack just to the left of this yesterday thinking that it was Frankenwood 5.7 as per Rock climbing joshua tree. It was an excellent 5.7. Not many 95 foot climbs at this grade here that give good value all the way to the top. 3 stars.
Guess we were on Norwegian wood!

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 25, 2010

The Vogel Book of Lies claims another pair of unsuspecting saps.

Chossy as all hell on the top half.

By Captain Fastrousers
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 26, 2010

Dihedral at the start is not bad climbing (but not 5.7 as the old guidebook suggests).

A shame that the upper section is all kinds of chossy though.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 24, 2012

Make sure your 5.7 leader is good to 5.10 R and has an affinity for ball bearing pieces of kitty litter raining down on them while they pull sketch moves on suspect gear. If you are able to look beyond all that, this is a really easy 5.7 and a great warm up for the wall.