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Frankenslime 

5.11c PG13

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

This route dictated where the bolts went, not all of the rock sounded good when hit with a hammer, so you might not like where the bolts are. However I personally find them very usable. The start might have some green slime around it. Start in a steep left facing corner, climb up passing 1 bolt to a mantle. From here find that sweet jug, lean out and clip the bolt. The holds are hard to find and use but they are there. There was a fixed chain draw on bolt 3 to help with the hard clip. After clipping the 3rd there are a few ways to do it, straight up (which is hardest) or going out left and coming back in the "line" (exciting!). The route feels a lot longer than 4 bolts!
I personally wouldn't let any green horns belay me on this, attention is a must.


Location 

Start on the far right side of the Whipper Wall on the west side. A short scramble will put you at the base. Its the large roof on the far right side of the west face.


Protection 

QD's



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By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 5, 2012

Solid .11c, but not very fun.