|The Right Hand Fork Ice Climbs
The upper dagger/pillar has been known to come crashing down mid-ascend.
If you're not up for running out the last 20-30' with no gear, don't even get on it. There may be some pin placements adjacent to the top pillar, but don't count on it, unless you're a one-handed-placement thin-pin master... or were born with three functional arms.
Every bit as steep as it appears, only longer.
Hike up the main road toward the Right Hand Fork, past campsight 12. The climb, if it's in, will be very apparent on the left side, requiring one to hike through the trees ~50yds to the base of the climb. Suggest placing a screw 20' up on the left to protect the belayer in the event of a catastrophic pillar failure, and avoid placing screws in the upper pillar if you have any desire to drink scotch in the safety of your own warm living room later that night.
Screws. Three bolt anchor at climbers left below/left of small tree, may sometimes need to be found under snow. Anchor webbing replaced 01/08 (red/black nylon)
|By Brian in SLC|
Feb 27, 2008
Please note that Get Whacked, climbed by a couple of parties on 2/23/08, fell down sometime that night or the next day. Its a similar aspect as this route. Rumor has Frankenchrist got climbed on 25 or 26 Feb. I think its very short for this world, and, so would be any person unlucky enough to be on it when it goes south. Please be careful. Night time temperatures are now above freezing and daytime is pouring on the heat. I'd be surprised if this route lasted into the weekend. Even so, its probably out of condition right now and would be a huge risk for anyone to climb it. Just sayin'...