Franceschi  5.10d

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Season:  Summer/Fall Submitted By:  Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Approximate route and belays for Franceschi and Mi...

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Description 

An obvious line that tackles the Southwest face of Torre Grande. The first pitch is worth doing by itself if you do not have the time to summit.

P1(5.10c): Follow the right-leaning crack past two bulges (crux) to a belay in the corner of a large, right-facing dihedral. Bolts, 80 ft.

P2(5.9+): Work up the dihedral to a ledge on the left. 90ft.

P3(5.7) Continue on easier ground to a large ledge. 160 ft.

P4(4th) Either traverse off left for the Torre Grande descent or traverse right to join the top pitches of Miriam.

P5(5.5) Follow the last pitch of Miriam, aiming for the line of least resistance to the summit. 60 ft.

Location 

Look for the obvious, right-diagonaling crack that leads into a long, right-facing dihedral on the Southwest face. Top-out and descend as for Miriam.

Protection 

P1 can be climbed solely on bolts. If summiting, bring a standard, supplemental rack for the Dolemites: single set of cams and nuts with additional long runners.

Photos of Franceschi Slideshow

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Approaching the first crux