Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Torre Grand South Summit
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct) 
Fandango 
Franceschi 
Nordica 
South Face (Via Miriam) 

Franceschi 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 12, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Approximate route and belays for Franceschi and Mi...

Description 

An obvious line that tackles the Southwest face of Torre Grande. The first pitch is worth doing by itself if you do not have the time to summit.

P1(5.10c): Follow the right-leaning crack past two bulges (crux) to a belay in the corner of a large, right-facing dihedral. Bolts, 80 ft.

P2(5.9+): Work up the dihedral to a ledge on the left. 90ft.

P3(5.7) Continue on easier ground to a large ledge. 160 ft.

P4(4th) Either traverse off left for the Torre Grande descent or traverse right to join the top pitches of Miriam.

P5(5.5) Follow the last pitch of Miriam, aiming for the line of least resistance to the summit. 60 ft.


Location 

Look for the obvious, right-diagonaling crack that leads into a long, right-facing dihedral on the Southwest face. Top-out and descend as for Miriam.


Protection 

P1 can be climbed solely on bolts. If summiting, bring a standard, supplemental rack for the Dolemites: single set of cams and nuts with additional long runners.



Photos of Franceschi Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the first crux
Approaching the first crux
Comments on Franceschi Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jojo Protheroe
Jul 21, 2013

First pitch is good, and can be easily rapped if you don't want to finish the whole route. First roof is cruxy, but the second roof is even harder if you can't figure out the feet. Although it's a harder grade, the first pitch is well bolted.

Either it was incredibly easy to get off route after the first pitch, or the climb was sparsely protected (and felt off route). After finishing and looking at the guide, we decided that we were on route, although it was quite dirty and did not seem like an intuitive climb.


Keep in mind that the rappel anchor at the top requires two 60m ropes. The anchor overlooks the gondola side of the rock.