Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sand Dunes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clairvoyance S 
Fragments of Floyd S 
Gratitude S 
Jimmy Durante S 
Kibosch Buttress T,S 
Leopard Skin T,S 
Leopard's Tail T,S 
Stepping Out T,S 
Stranger Than Friction S 
Thousand Pints of Lite S 
Twist and Shout S 
What's New Pussycat? S 

Fragments of Floyd 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 190', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lee Clark & Lyle Hurd 3rd
New Route: Yes
Season: Not summer
Page Views: 898
Submitted By: Lee Clark on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

Climbs the 'blank' wall left of Prestidigitator.

Pitch 1 45ft 5.10c
Climb the overhangs immediately under the chain belay shared with Prestidigitator, starting on the right. 3 bolts

Pitch 2 85ft 5.11d
Climb the wall heading left from the belay (crux reach - a bit of a boulder problem start! The rest of the pitch is 11a) and then straight up to belay on a ledge just beneath a crack. 5 bolts

Pitch 3 60ft 5.8
From the belay step up and left into the crack and follow it to the bolt belay shared with 1000 Points of light - big ledge. 1"-2.5" Gear

Protection 

Quickdraws and 1'-2.5" gear


Comments on Fragments of Floyd Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Dec 16, 2015

I climbed Prestidigator, which shares the start of Fragments of Floyd. The 1st bolt is missing. there are two empty holes...can anyone comment on the empty holes?
By Lee Clark
5 days ago

Fragments of Floyd climbs past three bolts directly under the shared belay chain on Prestidigitator above - Prestidigitator starts around a bulge on the right and then traverses left and up. Fragments goes direct/straight up a little further left. They do not share any common pitches, just that first belay.

Fragments was power drilled (Bosch 36V Lithium SDS+) (with Park & CATS permission/authorization) with 6x1/2" bolts very carefully placed to create a safe and fun lead.

I'd conducted research with Hilti directly on establishing a minimum standard for bolts in the park and it's specific variation of Navaho sandstone.

A real shame if someone's stripping bolts. It costs significant time and money to establish climbs, besides spoiling other climbers access to great routes.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!