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 ADVANCED
Crater Crag of North Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crater Cat TR 
Debhedral TR 
Doug's Variation T,S 
Fragile X TR 
Gig, The S 
Golden Arete S 
Misty S 
Mountain Lion S 
Rancid S 
Sending Choss TR 
Sweet T 

Fragile X 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson, LP
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 3, 2013

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Deb uses the alternate start sequence.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a TR line that has some interesting moves despite some of the fragile blocks along the way. It might warrant fixed gear, it might not. Don't climb this route unless you can avoid pulling on loose blocks.

Start to the left of Rancid in a short dihedral. The opening moves are good and solvable in 2 ways. Watch out for the hollow block/flake up and right (Fragile X #1)...it might only hold for light climbers like Deb. Move through easy terrain to the tiny roof. Don't go out left, that jug in the corner shifts (Fragile X #2). Pull the roof with a high step right and then high step left (crux). Watch out for the trapezoidal block (Fragile X #3). Move up and right, avoiding the loose block (Fragile X #4). Finish up and left. Be careful up there, stuff on the left isn't necessarily solid.

Walk off.

Note, we got probably more than a hundred pounds of loose rock off this...so far.

Update: Dave got the 1st X'ed block off with a crowbar. There was another big block up and left at the finish that came out...fortunately without seriously injuring anyone.


Location 

This is to the left of Rancid.


Protection 

We used the metal pipe, slung boulder, and #12 BD wire/orange Alien to make a slingshot toprope system. Long slings (12') are useful.



Photos of Fragile X Slideshow Add Photo
Deb engages the upper crux.
Deb engages the upper crux.
Approximate updated topo.
Approximate updated topo.
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