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Helen's Dome
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Brave Cowboy T 
Buffalo Soldier T,S 
Buffalo Tears T 
Electric Koolaid Acid Test  T 
Face Value T 
Fool's Gold T,S 
Fractured Fairytales S 
Gettin' the Groove S 
On the Bus T 
Pebble Beach T,TR 
Spree T,S 
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Unknown on South Face T 

Fractured Fairytales 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 6,038
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Oct 4, 2010

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Starting up pitch 4.

Description 

Fractured Fairytales (AKA: The Date climb) is a great introduction to S. Platte slab climbing. I can't think of an easier route that is this enjoyable. Whether climbing this as your first long slab climbing adventure, or just using it as a fast way to access Acid Rock, you can't argue how fun it is to cover that much ground on beautiful stone. Modern bolts and bolted belays remove that sense of terror that is commonly associated with "old school" S. Platte slab routes. Some of the run-outs my still feel spicy to the beginner leader, but you are probably more likely to be killed getting lost in the boulder fields on the walk off.

P1. There is no crux really, it's just a little too steep for walking. About 5 bolts lead up to the right side of the start ledge. There is an anchor under the route Spree (near the tiny tree). This pitch is about 5.4 and is a better approach, than the hike around the left side, for the routes that start on the ledge.... As of now, this is the only pitch that I have climbed. I didn't know that this was Fractured Fairytales. I look forward to finishing the route...

The rest of the pitches described by Dan G0D5H411:

P2: Traverse right, following the bolt line as it moves towards a small arete and one final step right to a set of anchors above boulders.

P3: Move right towards the pines and a black, water-worn slab. This pitch has a few bolts but requires a little bit of natural gear (small cams, nuts) to reduce the runout. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the face.

P4: Work your way up the slab to the right of the large dihedral, passing a small roof higher up. Belay at bolts next to a nice ledge.

P5: Head up left aiming for the fun looking arete and another long slab above. Belay at a two-bolt anchor on the face (if you have a 70m and gear, you can stretch it for a few more bolts and belay on a ledge up the to left.)

P6: Move right towards a crack and a bolt line above that angles up right towards the top of the dome. Again, there is a two bolt anchor on the left, but we stretched our 70m and aimed for the top of the dome. There are almost no gear placements at the top, but you can hunker down in one of the giant potholes on top to belay your second up.

Location 

Follow cairns up to the low point of the slab directly under the start ledge for Face Value and the others....

Protection 

Should be all bolted with bolted anchors. Bring a few wired nuts to slip over studs that might be missing hangers. The first pitch anchor is a good way to get down from the ledge, where other routes start in case of bad weather (since the walk off slab to the left would be dangerous while wet).

Per Harry Dorcy: the bolt count, plus cam(s), wire(s) for missing hanger(s), and piton:

P1: 6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 piton)*.
P4: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P5: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P6: 4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 bolt above the anchor for top-out).


Photos of Fractured Fairytales Slideshow Add Photo
Following the first pitch.
Following the first pitch.
Right by the anchor.  Walk left from here to reach the other routes.  Or 2nd pitch goes right....
Right by the anchor. Walk left from here to reach...
Looking back at the traversing second pitch.
Looking back at the traversing second pitch.
Pitch 6 to the top.
Pitch 6 to the top.
The fun fifth pitch arete.
The fun fifth pitch arete.
Pitch 3.
Pitch 3.
The first pitch scampers up this slab, aiming for the very tiny pine.  The second pitch angles right towards the partially obscured pine on the right skyline.
The first pitch scampers up this slab, aiming for ...
Pitch 5.
Pitch 5.
2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
Top of pitch four. <br /> <br />Photo by James.
Top of pitch four.

Photo by James.

Comments on Fractured Fairytales Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2013
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 5, 2010

Looks like the start of Fractured Fairytales?
By slim
Administrator
Oct 5, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agree.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Oct 5, 2010

It is.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Oct 6, 2010

Really? Sorry, I didn't realize this went beyond the ledge.... Where does it go from here?
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 6, 2010

Fractured Fairytales traverses straight right of the ledge - across a dihedral then up the slab - then traverses right again to a belay in the gully. From there, it is mostly straight up the slab which is just right of the large dihedral/gully system.

Some of the bolts may be chopped or missing hangers. Does anyone know the current condition?

Perhaps this route's info can be updated to include all of FF.
By slim
Administrator
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed FF in July or so and all bolts, and hangers were present except 1 - which was the very last bolt on the extremely low-angled climbing just before you get to the hot tub (last pitch).
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good route if you want to put in a lot of slab mileage in a great setting. In total I think it ended up being 6 pitches with ~1200 feet of climbing (although not 1200 feet in elevation gain due to all of the traversing pitches found on this climb). As of April, 2011, there was 1 bolt missing on the fourth pitch and 3 bolts missing on the last pitch. Either sling the stud with a nut or run it out.

A breakdown of the approach:
From the small parking area, either walk straight down towards the stream or take a trail that branches right and heads down towards the stream. Wade, rock-hop, or find a convenient log to cross. Head south (upstream) along a horse trail while ignoring all of the left-branching trails that head east. Eventually the main trail will head up a slope, angling away from the stream, and intersect a fence line. At a break in the fence, take a left turn along a well-worn trail keeping your eyes peeled for a large boulder sitting on the right side of the trail. In front of this boulder, there is a LONG low angle slab with a cairn at the bottom. We scrambled up this slab, through a cave on the left, up the path of least resistance through the boulder field, and through one more small cave that deposited us right at the base of the initial slab.

This was our breakdown of the pitches (each was ~200 feet):
P1: Angle right up the slab passing a number of bolts, aiming for a set of anchors on the ledge, just to the right of a small pine.
P2: Trvarse right, following the bolt line as it moves towards a small arete and one final step right to a set of anchors above boulders.
P3: Move right towards the pines and a black, water-worn slab. This pitch has a few bolts but requires a little bit of natural gear (small cams, nuts) to reduce the runout. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the face.
P4: Work your way up the slab to the right of the large dihedral, passing a small roof higher up. Belay at bolts next to a nice ledge.
P5: Head up left aiming for the fun looking arete and another long slab above. Belay at a two-bolt anchor on the face (if you have a 70m and gear, you can stretch it for a few more bolts and belay on a ledge up the to left.)
P6: Move right towards a crack and a bolt line above that angles up right towards the top of the dome. Again, there is a two bolt anchor on the left, but we stretched our 70m and aimed for the top of the dome. There are almost no gear placements at the top, but you can hunker down in one of the giant potholes on top to belay your second up.

It ~may~ be possible to rap off with two ropes (not sure), but with one rope, we walked off climber's right. Gear-wise, 10 slings, a small set of nuts (for placement and slinging hangerless studs) along with a few small cams seemed adequate.
By Tom Willard
From: Avon, CO
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed FF in July 2011. Easy but fun. Climbed in three pitches with some simul-climbing. Added a few missing hangers. Two studs on upper pitches were damaged and couldn't fix. Would be a great route for a beginner's first multi-pitch or for a tentative spouse. Not typical for South Platte; very well-protected but a nice climb for beginners. Hoping others will respect the vision and not take or chop bolts. Seems there is still plenty of development left for hard runout routes almost everywhere on the dome.
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Nov 24, 2011

Finally got to do the whole route today. Dan's description was pretty much spot on. Except it only seemed like about 800 instead of 1200 feet. Most pitches we only used half of our 70....

I did notice a couple of hangers missing here and there but on super easy sections. The only piece of gear we used was on P3, a #2 Camalot (a smaller cam would have fit as well). After P4, you can belay from the comfy ledge instead of the anchor. There is a nice crack on the right side of the top that will take about any size cam or nut you have for an anchor (20 feet down from the big pot holes).

I honestly don't think this was harder than 5.6, but the consensus seems to be 5.7, so I just changed the rating to that....
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 23, 2012

It felt closer to 5.5.

But one hell of a FUN ass route!
By Patrick Betts
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did this route a few days ago. Very fun route! Missing a few hangers on pitches 4, 5, and 6. Just one on each pitch, though on very very easy (5.4, 5.5) terrain.
By Harry Dorcy
From: Denver, CO
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We couldn't find any bolt counts listed here, so ended up carrying twice what we needed. Here's an updated bolt count (4/30/12):

P1: 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 piton - we skipped it)*.
P4: 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt - we skipped it).
P5: 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt - we used a nut).
P6: 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (plus 1 bolt above the anchor for top-out).

  • P3 was weird for us. Perhaps we screwed something up.

We ended up climbing the whole thing on nuts and one cam. We moved off the anchor after P2, down and right to a nice wide-open alcove. Even from this lower position, the first bolt was slightly below the alcove.

The next bolt was 20' higher, and it steep enough and featureless enough that I didn't feel comfortable running it out. I scrambled up the dihedral to the left of the slab, followed a horizontal crack right to get back on-route, and placed a cam about 10' above the second bolt. Given that a ground-fall was guaranteed either way, I felt better with the solid handholds in the dihedral.

It was about 30' of run-out (up and left) between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. After that, it was about 40' to the piton. This was on 5.7 slab, not the 5.4-5.5 crab-walk that comes on P5 and P6. Instead of doing that, I went up and right, placing nuts in some small cracks as I traversed left to the anchor.

The piton was at your feet on the belay ledge. It was so close to the anchor that I didn't bother using it. I have to assume there were some hanger-less bolts down below that I didn't spot.

Very fun climb! A great first trip to the South Platte!
By ErikaNW
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

We felt this went much easier than 5.7 - I guess I'd give it 5.4 (my partner insists 5.2) and definitely not at all representative of the grade for the SPlatte. Expecting 5.7, I was underwhelmed with the climbing although the setting is beautiful. Go in expecting 5.3 low angle slab climbing, with some runout, and you won't be disappointed!

I think we noticed 2 missing hangers - 1 on P4 and 1 on P5.

The approach and descent trail are both well-cairned.
By Dankasaurus
From: Lyons, CO
Nov 19, 2012

Done in 3 pitches. A useful approach to the Acid Rock classics....
By Josh B
Apr 3, 2013

On P3 we found it easier to go straight to the 2nd bolt off of the flat area above the alcove. By skipping the 1st bolt and starting above the alcove, you get to work your way up a face with easy climbing, 5.6, and a very little run out. The 3rd bolt was missing if I remember correctly, so I slung a tree off to the left before going to the next bolt. We felt this was a much more natural line for this pitch.