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Penetrators, The 
Reptile 
Reptile Tears 
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Fractured Fairytale 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Glenn Schuler & Wayne Smith
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Glenn Schuler on Apr 17, 2008
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Schu on the fun Fractured Fairytale.
Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.

There is a direct start with two bolts that is an open project. It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.


Location 

From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.


Protection 

Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.



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Top end of the Fairytale.
Top end of the Fairytale.
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By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 21, 2008

Chocolate Thunder 5.12

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
May 29, 2008

The direct start to Fractured Fairytale goes at ~5.12c. Beware the big flake at the 2nd bolt flexes a bit when you pull on it. I reefed pretty hard on it without any problems, but you might tell your belayer to stand to the side & wear a helmet. Excellent rock & good moves, and avoids the only poor quality section of FF.