Fractured Fairytale  5.10 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Glenn Schuler & Wayne Smith Submitted By:  Glenn Schuler on Apr 17, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Schu on the fun Fractured Fairytale.

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Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>> Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Scramble up & left 20' to a short, water polished dihedral with a small bush at the bottom of it. Climb up & over a funky overhang with big jugs and get stood up on the ledge over the lip (crux). Be sure to put in a directional piece here before traversing left across the ledge. Continue up the zig-zagging splitter finger crack towards a small dead tree on the left side of the prow. Finish straight up the exposed upper section to the anchors.

There is a direct start with two bolts that is an open project. It currently has a quick link on the second bolt.

Location 

From the Reptile Butress go right for about a 100' or so until you find a small flat, grassy patch at the base of another prominent butress.

Protection 

Standard rack, bring extra cams from TCUs to 1 1/2" sizes. Also bring plenty of long runners.

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Top end of the Fairytale.