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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Foxtrot 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Skip Guerin/Bob Horan, 1981
Page Views: 4,131
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Steven Lucarelli getting his feet dialed in for th...
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Description 

Another not so hidden gem on the West Ridge. It looks like a crack, but does not climb like a crack. First off, the pro is good over the roof, but pumpy to place. Once through the sketchy corner and over the roof, you end up doing these pinch moves, layaways, I dyno'ed to get through the crux and into the flare. Short but sweet...Eldo crack climbing at its best.

[The gear is adequate but very pumpy to place (and hard to see at the crux) with a long fall potential at the crux move]

Once on the upper slab, its gets really dicey getting over to the anchor above Parallels...A 2-bolt anchor would be perfect for this route and Crazy Fingers just to the right.


Protection 

sm/med nuts, .4"-1.25" cams for the main route, .5"+2" cams to get to the anchor *This route and the route to its right (Crazy Fingers) are in DIRE need of a 2-bolt anchor to share*



Photos of Foxtrot Slideshow Add Photo
Now that's hard trad climbing!  Steve sticking the sweet, sweet crux move.
Now that's hard trad climbing! Steve sticking the...
Wayne Crill on Foxtrot before 1st ascent of Tango.
Wayne Crill on Foxtrot before 1st ascent of Tango.
Strong Steve setting up for the crux deadpoint.
Strong Steve setting up for the crux deadpoint.
Unknown climber on Foxtrot.
Unknown climber on Foxtrot.
Wayne Crill on Foxtrot before 1st ascent of Tango.
Wayne Crill on Foxtrot before 1st ascent of Tango.
Rob having it on his on-sight attempt.
Rob having it on his on-sight attempt.
Brad Durbin on Foxtrot before 2nd ascent of Tango.
Brad Durbin on Foxtrot before 2nd ascent of Tango.
Comments on Foxtrot Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 22, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 3, 2003

An excellent route, considerably harder than Parallels (if Parallels is c/d or just right if b), good gear where you need it. Also good call on [separate] anchor...

By Mike Storeim
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 5, 2003

Thanks to Roger Wilkerson for pointing out my confusing double negative in the above post.

It should read "I do not believe that convenience would be a valid reason to place these anchors".

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 9, 2003

Ditto AC that this is significantly harder than Parallels.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2004

While I usually find Eldo grades to be pretty standard (or even soft at times), Foxtrot felt like a sandbag to me. This route felt much more strenous and technical than any 11+ I have done on gear. This felt as hard as some of the 12a or 12b bolted routes I have done in Eldo, except you have to place gear from funky stances.

By Joe Collins
Mar 8, 2005
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

I think this is probably my favorite pitch on the West Ridge. The gear is tricky and strenuous to place, so it would be a very difficult onsight lead... but the gear is good throughout. I agree with the comments about the route's difficulty. I would think of the guidebook grade of 11d as more of an 11+ rating, if you know what I mean.

By Joseph P. Crotty
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

Short and sweet. I highly commend anyone that can onsight as some of the gear and moves are tricky. If not comfortable at the grade, be cautious just after the start above the ledge which has sparse pro.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Mega classic, Mega good! I feel this route doesn't deserve an R. It has plenty of great gear throughout. Just be careful with your feet coming off the ledge at the start. I've never been a big fan of the "PG13" tacked on behind a grade. I feel R and X are plenty.

The gear just before the crux is solid and really easy to place. One of the best Eldo has to offer. 5 STARS!!!

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2008

I proposed a 2-bolt anchor above Foxtrot/Crazy Fingers in 2001, and (if I remember correctly) it was approved by the FHRC in June of that year. Due to events out of my control I never followed up on the proposal, and after some thought, decided against pursuing it further. I agree that the current set-up is inconvenient, but Foxtrot is getting a lot of ascents, and the current anchor is, at least, workable. There are many examples in the canyon where a 2-bolt anchor is necessary. Is this one of them? I don't know.
I should come clean and say that part of my rationale for the anchor was to make an easier staging point to climb the (in 2001) unclimbed corner above Foxtrot, which thankfully was done without the anchor by Wayne Crill (2007) and named Tango.
As an interesting aside, the Tango corner has been on the radar since (at least) July 1982, when Alec Sharp's article "Bolder Boulder" was printed in issue 86 of the British climbing rag MOUNTAIN. To quote: "The bouldering attitude appears clearly in routes that he (i.e. Skip Guerin) and (Bob) Horan did up on the West Ridge, the parallel cracks of Foxtrot and Parallels, where obvious second pitches continued up from where those routes end. To Guerin and Horan, though, the interesting climbing ended at this point."
I beg to differ.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Feb 2, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

An anchor would be nice but at some point you need to draw the line between convenience and necessity. If you're able to climb this route, then the traverse to the anchor shouldn't really be that big of an issue. And there is adequate gear to protect the initial moves into the traverse so that kind of cancels out any argument for the anchor as a safety measure IMO.

I've used the existing anchor to set up topropes on "Foxtrot" and "Crazy Fingers" with directionals in place and never had any issues. I've also cleaned both of these routes after leading them with a little help from my belayer, and it wasn't too difficult. I can fully understand the argument for an additional anchor, but convenience just isn't a good enough reason, especially in Eldo.

By bhoran
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2009

I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2010

"I did the first lead of Foxtrot with Skip and I named it after the musical group Genesis's album, "Foxtrot". A lead that took small wires and RPs to lead. This was before the days of the smaller, "Alien" cams. [Bob Horan]"

Bob, you are the man!

By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2013

Ditto, Clayton: Bob and Skip's ascents of these routes were inspired!