Fox Confessor  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 55 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Tyler Hoffart Submitted By:  ferrells on Sep 5, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sean Ferrell (me) in heaven on Fox Confessor.

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Open with restrictions: MORE INFO >>> Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open; however, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon. Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Beautiful! This route finds the best position on the entire wall. Just unbelievable.
Start with a brutal sequence of long reaches between pockets and edges, coming out of the first steep roof. It doesn't let up until you traverse left at the third bolt, but persevere! Next you have 3 bolts worth of huge jugs, which feels more like the routes below than the others on the Mez.
Rest as best you can in the largest, highest hueco, using a (potentially) awesome kneebar (rt.). Then bust out of there for a 30 foot section of long moves between mostly jugs. Look for a final heart breaker red point crux very high.
Because the Mez can be a little confusing, start on a good left hand pocket and a decent right hand sidepull/undercling. Finish using holds on the left of the dihedral, and finally working into the dihedral to clip the New Beginnings anchors.

Location 

Far left side of the Mez. Look for a belay bolt beneath it, and a gravelly, slick rock ramp of doom that would shoot you off into the rocks and water if you let it.
Avoid cutting right onto the route that branches at the 3-4 bolt. This is a closed project. Please respect the equipper of the route - written September 2012. Message me for questions, please.

Protection 

Draws. Maybe 10 or 12.
Stick clip for sure.