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Fourth Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Candelaria's Crack T 
Flake T,TR 
Heartland, The T 
Mickey Mantel T 
Mickey Mantel (submitted as Canyon Doors) T 
Northwest Face T 
Scrundle Corner T 
Smooth Groove T 
South Face Roof 
Southwest Chimney T 
Undocumented Free Roof T 
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
Unknown, The T 
Zolar Czakl T 
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 

Fourth Buttress  


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Location: 40.0122, -105.309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,752
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face, 8+; The Heartland, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.

L->R:

A. Flake, 10 R, 1-2p, gear.
B. Zolar Czakl, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
C. Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R, 1-2p, gear.
D. Northwest Face, 8, 1-2p, gear.
E. The Heartland, 9+, 1-2p, 210', gear.
F. Southwest Chimney?, 4, 1-2p, 100', gear.
G. South Face Roof, 7 A3 or C2, 1-2p, gear.
H. Undocumented Free Roof, 9-, 1p, 100', gear.
I1. Scrundle Corner, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
I2. Smooth Groove, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Endgame?, 10-, 1-2p, gear.
above K. Candelaria's Crack, 8+, 1p, 30', gear.
L. Candelaria's Crack?, 8+, 2p, 30'?, gear.
M? Scrundle Corner, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
N? Smooth Groove, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
O? Green Gargoyle, 10, 1p, 120', gear.
P. Mickey Mantel, 9, 2p, 150-200', gear.
Q? Azimuth?, 10, 1-2p, gear
R? Mr. Atrophy?, 12-, 1-2p, gear.
S? Wait Until Dark?, 10, 1-2p, gear.
T? After Dark?, 10+, 1-2p, gear.
U? Cloddy Corner?, 6, 1-2p, gear.

Above the 4th Buttress
AA. Petite Arete, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
BB. Grand Jam Left, 9 R, 1p, 40', gear.
CC. Grand Jam, 7, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Grand Jam Right, 7+, 1p, 40', gear.

Getting There 

For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.

There are routes which lie on the south face of the Fourth Buttress. To access these, you have to walk along a trail near the creek until you're around on the south side of the crag. Approaching these from the east is not recommended.

Descents 

There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.3 miles from here

15 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',5],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fourth Buttress:
Northwest Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Zolar Czakl   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Heartland   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Zolar Czakl (Direct)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Flake   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Fourth Buttress

Featured Route For Fourth Buttress
The Heartland.

The Heartland 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Fourth Buttress
This has nice, exposed cracks on two short pitches on the Fourth Elephant Buttress. Start as you would for the Northwest Face, but continue right to a thin crack. Make an committing exposed step to the right and up the thin crack to a nice belay ledge. Pitch 2 begins by going around to the left of the dihedral and going up the the crack to the left of the dihedral to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Fourth Buttress
Photos of Fourth Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
South Face of the 4th Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: South Face of the 4th Buttress.
Third Buttress 1. Standard Route (7+) 2. West Face...
BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress 1. Standard Route (7+) 2. West Face...
The right side of the 4th Elephant Buttress.
The right side of the 4th Elephant Buttress.
Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses.  Some short rou...
BETA PHOTO: Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses. Some short rou...

Comments on Fourth Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By fluffy
May 12, 2006
There is now a rap/toprope anchor consisting of a horn slung with cable and a bolt with chain at the top. One 60m leaves plenty of room to get back to the pipe. Thanks to whomever installed this.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 8, 2007
Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless.