Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fourth Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Candelaria's Crack T 
Flake T,TR 
Heartland, The T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Northwest Face T 
Scrundle Corner T 
Smooth Groove T 
South Face Roof 
Southwest Chimney T 
Undocumented Free Roof T 
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
Unknown, The T 
Zolar Czakl T 
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 

Fourth Buttress 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.0122, -105.309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,111
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 29, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face, 8+; The Heartland, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.

L->R:

A. Flake, 10 R, 1-2p, gear.
B. Zolar Czakl, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
C. Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R, 1-2p, gear.
D. Northwest Face, 8, 1-2p, gear.
E. The Heartland, 9+, 1-2p, 210', gear.
F. Southwest Chimney?, 4, 1-2p, 100', gear.
G. South Face Roof, 7 A3 or C2, 1-2p, gear.
H. Undocumented Free Roof, 9-, 1p, 100', gear.
I1. Scrundle Corner, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
I2. Smooth Groove, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Endgame?, 10-, 1-2p, gear.
above K. Candelaria's Crack, 8+, 1p, 30', gear.
L. Candelaria's Crack?, 8+, 2p, 30'?, gear.
M. Mickey Mantle?, 9, 2p, 200', gear.
N. Azimuth?, 10, 1-2p, gear
O. Mr. Atrophy?, 12-, 1-2p, gear.
P. Wait Until Dark?, 10, 1-2p, gear.
Q. After Dark?, 10+, 1-2p, gear.
R. Cloddy Corner?, 6, 1-2p, gear.

Above the 4th Buttress
AA. Petite Arete, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
BB. Grand Jam Left, 9 R, 1p, 40', gear.
CC. Grand Jam, 7, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Grand Jam Right, 7+, 1p, 40', gear.


Getting There 

For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.

There are routes which lie on the south face of the Fourth Buttress. To access these, you have to walk along a trail near the creek until you're around on the south side of the crag. Approaching these from the east is not recommended.


Descents 

There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fourth Buttress:
Northwest Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Zolar Czakl   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Heartland   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Zolar Czakl (Direct)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Flake   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Fourth Buttress

Featured Route For Fourth Buttress
Just 15' to the left of the Green Gargoyle is the right-facing Scrundle Corner and the Smooth Groove.

Scrundle Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Fourth Buttress
Scramble up onto the grassy ledge on the south side of the 4th above the apple tree. Start up the large, right-facing corner, and stay to the left through the bulge (3" cam). Continue up the obvious, right-facing dihedral to about mid-height where a thin, steep, difficult-to-protect 5.9++ crux is encountered. This is heady and bold! Stay in the classic corner to its top. After much scrubbing and trundling (thus the name), this line is cleaning up nicely.......[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Fourth Buttress
Local Shops
A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts 0
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4

[ Read All News ]
Upcoming Events
Sep 20Mickey Mouse Re-bolt Day
Sep 26Reel Rock 2014 - South Denver
Photos of Fourth Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Third Buttress <br />1. Standard Route (7+) <br />2. West Face (7) <br /> <br />Fourth Buttress <br />3. Flake (10c) <br />4. Zolar Czakl (10a) <br />5. Northwest Face (8+)
BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...
Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses.  Some short routes to play upon.
BETA PHOTO: Above the 4th Elephant Buttresses. Some short rou...
The right side of the 4th Elephant Buttress.
The right side of the 4th Elephant Buttress.
Comments on Fourth Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By fluffy
May 12, 2006

There is now a rap/toprope anchor consisting of a horn slung with cable and a bolt with chain at the top. One 60m leaves plenty of room to get back to the pipe. Thanks to whomever installed this.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 8, 2007

Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless.