Fourth Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...
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The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face
, 8+; The Heartland
, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct)
, 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.
, 10 R, 1-2p, gear.
B. Zolar Czakl
, 9+, 1-2p, gear.
C. Zolar Czakl (Direct)
, 10- R, 1-2p, gear.
D. Northwest Face
, 8, 1-2p, gear.
E. The Heartland
, 9+, 1-2p, 210', gear.
F. Southwest Chimney
?, 4, 1-2p, 100', gear.
G. South Face Roof
, 7 A3 or C2, 1-2p, gear.
H. Undocumented Free Roof
, 9-, 1p, 100', gear.
I1. Scrundle Corner
, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
I2. Smooth Groove
, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle?
, 10+, 1p, 70', gear.
K. Endgame?, 10-, 1-2p, gear.
above K. Candelaria's Crack
, 8+, 1p, 30', gear.
L? Scrundle Corner
, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.
M? Smooth Groove
, 7+, 1p, 100', gear.
N? Green Gargoyle, 10, 1p, 120', gear.
O. Canyon Doors aka Variation of Mickey Mantel
, 10, 2p, 150', gear.
P. Mickey Mantel
, 9, 2p, 150-200', gear.
Q? Azimuth?, 10, 1-2p, gear
R? Mr. Atrophy?, 12-, 1-2p, gear.
S? Wait Until Dark?, 10, 1-2p, gear.
T? After Dark?, 10+, 1-2p, gear.
U? Cloddy Corner?, 6, 1-2p, gear. Above the 4th Buttress
AA. Petite Arete
, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
BB. Grand Jam Left
, 9 R, 1p, 40', gear.
CC. Grand Jam
, 7, 1p, 40', gear.
DD. Grand Jam Right
, 7+, 1p, 40', gear.
For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.
There are routes which lie on the south face of the Fourth Buttress. To access these, you have to walk along a trail near the creek until you're around on the south side of the crag. Approaching these from the east is not recommended.
There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route
. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.
Weather station 2.3 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Fourth Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fourth Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fourth Buttress:
Flake 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Fourth Buttress
Scrundle Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Fourth Buttress
Scramble up onto the grassy ledge on the south side of the 4th above the apple tree. Start up the large, right-facing corner, and stay to the left through the bulge (3" cam). Continue up the obvious, right-facing dihedral to about mid-height where a thin, steep, difficult-to-protect 5.9++ crux is encountered. This is heady and bold! Stay in the classic corner to its top. I'm sure others have climbed this obvious corner before, I think I notice old pin scars at the crux. After much needed scrubbi...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
May 12, 2006
There is now a rap/toprope anchor consisting of a horn slung with cable and a bolt with chain at the top. One 60m leaves plenty of room to get back to the pipe. Thanks to whomever installed this.
By Aeon Aki
Oct 8, 2007
Though I wouldn't trust the cemented chain by itself, the fixed sling paired with it provided a safe rap to the ground. Maybe not necessary, but convenient nonetheless.