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The Fourth Buttress has several good routes: Northwest Face, 8+; The Heartland, 9+; Zolar Czakl (Direct), 10- R. There is a small buttress on top of the 4th Buttress which contain a few more feet of climbing, if you are so inclined. Access for the right side of the buttress is unclear, so tread cautiously, please.
For routes on the left side of the face, there 2 alternatives. 1) more popular - cross the bridge, hike up to the water pipe, and walk right to the end of the pipe, at the tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. 2) you can hike on the larger trail along the river to below the crag and do a loose scramble up to the buttress. You can belay here, anchoring in to a huge eye bolt in the rock or you can cautiously scramble across to below the face and create a belay.
There are multiple options for descent: 1) If the water level is low enough, the easier descent may be the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 2) You can also scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route. 3) You can downclimb the 4th class gully between the 2nd & 3rd buttresses. It is exposed, thus it is not ideal in the rain or with beginners. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe all the way back to the Fourth Buttress.
14 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Fourth Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fourth Buttress:
Northwest Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Zolar Czakl 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Heartland 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Zolar Czakl (Direct) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Flake 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Fourth Buttress
The Heartland 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Fourth Buttress
This has nice, exposed cracks on two short pitches on the Fourth Elephant Buttress. Start as you would for the Northwest Face, but continue right to a thin crack. Make an committing exposed step to the right and up the thin crack to a nice belay ledge. Pitch 2 begins by going around to the left of the dihedral and going up the the crack to the left of the dihedral to the top....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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