||Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Conor Dysinger, Tess Carlson|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||late spring, summer, fall|
|Page Views: ||795|
|Submitted By: ||ConorD on Sep 16, 2011|
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first pitch of fourplay
This route goes up the west side of the tower formation, following three different crack systems, and very comfortable belay ledges. The top of the route is a tower summit, and is only about the size of a car. The breakdown of the pitches is:
pitch 1: find the cairn at the west side of the tower's base and find the 2 prominent cracks that head up the west face. The climb takes the left of these cracks, going through a small big hands section to a face where the crack disapears for a few feet. Once you reach the small roof, depart right to do an easy traverse and up about 10 more feet to the anchor. (5.10a/b)
Pitch 2: head straight up to the offwidth and then follow cracks trending slightly left. Once you reach the top of these cracks, walk left across the "diving board" and climb the next small step to reach the anchors at the base of the tower proper. (5.7)
Pitch 3: This is the money pitch. Start up the wide crack until it narrows(about 15 ft), to the obviously loose flake(don't put pro behind it). Reach out right to clip the bolt and pull onto the knobs and crimps that head up the vertical headwall. Go through three bolts until you are able to rejoin a crack system, and cruise this awesome 60 feet to the summit. (5.10a/b)
This route starts on the west side of the towers and is marked by a cairn at the base. Look for the 2 crack system heading directly up the west face.
Double rack from #1 metolius size to #3 camalot. single of #4 camalot and single set of stoppers. Lots of slings for the rope stretcher first pitch. This climb runs the whole size range of pro, and some pitches are long.
All anchors are bolted anchors with webbing that is new as of september 2011. Bring some extra webbing incase the anchors have become tat. The first pitch must be done as a double rope rappel, but you can leave your tag line here is you are climbing the rest with a 70 m. The last pitch requires a 70m rope to rappel, if you are using a 60 make sure to bring your tag line up.