Fourplay 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Mike Arqueso, Tony Lusk, Mike Witt,??? |
| Submitted By: | dcohn on Dec 10, 2006 |
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Chelsea Cook redpointing Fourplay.
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Description Relative low angle (not slabby) and very thin holds on a long and fairly sustained route. Great protection and quality rock make this a route to do.
Location long face to the right of Send Me, the obvious bolted .12a roof
Protection quickdraws
By Steve Pulver From: Tucson, AZ Dec 11, 2006
| Is this the route that starts on the arete to the right of the 5.12 roof then goes right, onto the face? |
By dcohn Dec 12, 2006
| I think Fourplay is the next route to the right of the one you are thinking of. It doesn't start on the arete. |
By Jimbo Dec 26, 2006
| The route to the immediate right of the .12 roof is also a newer route. It does start on an arete the attempts to lead you away from the crack through a small roof. Somewhat contrived but it's only 5.10 not 5.11. Fourplay is 20 feet farther right around the next corner. I agree with jbak, Fourplay is a great route. |
By Jimbo Feb 1, 2007
| I didn't know we had four star routes in Tucson. I thought that was more of a J-Tree "five star" kinda thing. jbak is right this is a 2 star route on the same par with the other routes along the wall. |
By Jimbo Feb 3, 2007
| No question about your comparison jbak. The question is, is it a 3 star route for La Milagrosa. That is, is it better than all the other routes in the canyon. If it is only a two star route then any other route that is not as good as Fourplay in Milagrosa is only a one star route. And any route that is not as good as the, now, one star routes, are no star routes. I don't think there are any no star routes in Milagrosa. Maybe we should go to an a,b,c,d, add on to the star system. That way Fourplay could be a **/c while Community Service would be a **/a. |
By Braxtron From: ... Apr 23, 2007 rating: 5.11
| Did this climb today, thought it was stellar. Felt like solid .11 to me. Stay close to the bolts toward the end so you can do the sweet finish sequence. |
By Joseph Stover From: Santa Barbara, CA Dec 16, 2007 rating: 5.11b
| The first bolt short have been 1 foot down and 1 foot right, the second should have been 3 foot right and a few inches down, but I didn't lead it so don't take my word for it. This is one crimpy son-uva-gun! Climb it when its cold, so you can't feel the pain! (Edit: I have been informed that there is a nice sequence straight up the first two bolts, but it escapes me. I really enjoyed the sequence to the right though.) |
By Chelsea Cook Apr 14, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| When I informed a friend that Stealin' was my favorite climb on the mountain he thought I was crazy and recommended this climb. I am sooo glad he did because it is now my favorite climb to date! If you like crimpy, technical moves, this is the route for you! |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Apr 20, 2009
| Hey Chelsea, were you down there this past weekend? Too hot or just right in the shade? We debated about going there but ultimately headed up the mountain a bit. On the way back down we were still left to wonder what the conditions actually were? BTW, that is a nice route and always worth a ride! ~Susan |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Apr 22, 2009
| congrats chelsea!! |
By Chelsea Cook Apr 25, 2009 rating: 5.11a
| Thanks Geir, thanks Christian! Susan, the last day that I was out there was that day there were 50mph gusts- which was not fun. I haven't been out there since then, but my experience with Milagrosa this time of year has been that the Main Wall stays nice since it's shaded most of the day. I hope you had fun higher on the mountain! |
By Ben Venter From: Tucson, AZ Mar 29, 2011 rating: 5.11a/b
| Really fun. One of my favorites in the canyon. |
By Simon Hatfield From: Los Angeles, CA Jan 29, 2013 rating: 5.11-
| Great route! Continuous and thoughtful with cool, positive holds, and one great hands free rest. This place has very solid grades! |
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