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Four Sheets to the Wind 

5.9+

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Wilt, Samples '84
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Ladd Raine coming out of the firs arch and into th...

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Description 

Awesome climb, corner to layback to roof/corner to layback
Endro-crux
solid placements all the way up, beware! watch out for placements that will create bad falls (near roof section).

This route has a bad habit of eating gear, so be careful with your placements so they don't become fixed gear!


Location 

climb is obvious overhanging corner on east side of main junkyard area


Protection 

Solid gear (normal rack), make sire not to leave it in the climb as there are always a few cams that are fixed somewhere in the initial arch of this climb.



Photos of Four Sheets to the Wind Slideshow Add Photo
Moving on the second roof. '97.

Moving on the second roof. '97.

Four Sheets to the Wind

BETA PHOTO: Four Sheets to the Wind

A New River clasic.

A New River clasic.

Ladd Raine placing some gear high on this classic line... <br /> <br />Be careful with your placements or they will become just another fixed piece among many.

Ladd Raine placing some gear high on this classic ...

Four Sheets to the Wind, NRG, WV.

Four Sheets to the Wind, NRG, WV.

Four Sheets on TR

Four Sheets on TR

Four Sheets on TR

Four Sheets on TR

Cruxin' out

Cruxin' out


Comments on Four Sheets to the Wind Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex A
Mar 27, 2010

One of the Best 5.9's in the gorge, great fun,

By MPuser10840
Administrator
From: Erlangen, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9+

This was a great climb! Embrace the layback!

By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
Aug 25, 2011

As of 25-Aug-2011 there was a Wasps nest inside the creacks right at the anchors. Someone had written a note in chalk on the wall at the start of the climb warning me about their presence but I figured heh... maybe that an old note. It wasn't and I got a strike to the chest. Luckly I had just clipped the second anchor and dropped out of range as the little buggers swarmed... can't ruin my OS!

By Mike J.
From: Red rock camp ground
Aug 6, 2012

Grate route! I would give in an old school 5.9++

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
May 6, 2013

This is as good as 5.9 gets. Felt stout at the grade, much harder than New Yosemite. Definitely a must-do if you're at the Junkyard, even if you lead much harder.