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Junkyard Wall
Routes Sorted
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Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T,S 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct) T 
Realignment (Entertainer direct), The T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 

Four Sheets to the Wind 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wilt, Samples '84
Page Views: 7,883
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Matt Wade cranking through the roofs on Four Sheet...

Description 

Awesome climb, corner to layback to roof/corner to layback
Enduro-crux with solid placements all the way up!

This route has a bad habit of eating gear, so be careful with your placements so they don't become fixed gear!

Location 

climb is obvious overhanging corner on east side of main junkyard area

Protection 

Solid gear (normal rack), make sire not to leave it in the climb as there are always a few cams that are fixed somewhere in the initial arch of this climb.


Photos of Four Sheets to the Wind Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd Raine coming out of the firs arch and into th...
Ladd Raine coming out of the firs arch and into th...
Moving on the second roof. '97.
Moving on the second roof. '97.
Four Sheets on TR
Four Sheets on TR
Four Sheets to the Wind
BETA PHOTO: Four Sheets to the Wind
A New River clasic.
A New River clasic.
Four Sheets on TR
Four Sheets on TR
Pumping the hangs on Four Sheets
Pumping the hangs on Four Sheets
Cruxin' out
Cruxin' out
Ladd Raine placing some gear high on this classic ...
Ladd Raine placing some gear high on this classic ...
Four Sheets to the Wind, NRG, WV.
Four Sheets to the Wind, NRG, WV.
Matt slithering up Four Sheets at the Crux
Matt slithering up Four Sheets at the Crux

Comments on Four Sheets to the Wind Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex A
Mar 27, 2010

One of the Best 5.9's in the gorge, great fun,
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This was a great climb! Embrace the layback!
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
Aug 25, 2011

As of 25-Aug-2011 there was a Wasps nest inside the creacks right at the anchors. Someone had written a note in chalk on the wall at the start of the climb warning me about their presence but I figured heh... maybe that an old note. It wasn't and I got a strike to the chest. Luckly I had just clipped the second anchor and dropped out of range as the little buggers swarmed... can't ruin my OS!
By BigMoveMike
From: prescott
Aug 6, 2012

Grate route! I would give in an old school 5.9++
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
May 6, 2013

This is as good as 5.9 gets. Felt stout at the grade, much harder than New Yosemite. Definitely a must-do if you're at the Junkyard, even if you lead much harder.
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Nov 27, 2013

Way too insecure at the crux to be 10a...definitely 9+!! (but very well protected) One of the best routes I have ever done in my life.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Sep 3, 2014

Choose your path carefully young grasshopper. (the whip is at 1:00 min)