Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adirondack Rehabilitation 
Amnesia Chasm 
Amphitheatre Crack 
Birthday Corner 
Black Arch ArÍte 
Broken Broom 
Carpenter & Das 
Cranium 
Critical Crimps 
Crossway 
Dexter's Dugout 
Drive 
E-stim 
Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It 
Four Ounces to Freedom 
Full Recovery 
Gun Show 
Hang Time 
Here I Go Again 
Impulse Drive 
Intensive Care 
Lane Change 
Outpatient 
Parallel Passage 
Pinch an Inch 
Plumb Line 
Post Op 
Recuperation Boulevard 
Reducto Adductor 
Renegade 
Scaredy Cat 
Second Job 
Side Show 
Sleepy Hollow 
Suicidal Sydney 
Tilly's Trench 
Torcher 
Tribulations 

Four Ounces to Freedom 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Farnsworth
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 493
Submitted By: Mike Farnsworth on Jan 27, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

Working it before the bolts were all in!

Description 

If you like thin arete climbing, this route is for you! Climb the beautiful square-cut arete. There are no stopper moves (once you get the beta, and provided the temperatures are optimal), but the hardest part is certainly just below the number 2 Camalot placement where the roof meets the arete. For me, the foot sequence was key, culminating in a "falling" toss to a decent sloper while holding a "nipple" with my left hand. The top could honestly use an additional bolt or two; if you want to put these in, be my guest. Otherwise, I might get around to it some day.


Location 

Scramble up the gully to the left of Gun Show to a ledge - belay here. It might be worth anchoring the belayer to the small pine, as the ledge feels exposed.


Protection 

quickdraws and a numero dos (number 2 Camalot)



Comments on Four Ounces to Freedom Add Comment
Show which comments
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 16, 2012

Has anyone sent thos since mike's fa?

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Feb 11, 2013

I got some crane projects I wanna send this year. I belay you and vice versa