|By Gary N|
From: Durango, CO
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Did this route in two pitches as described above. Had major rope drag. Would do it in 3 pitches next time.
The first pitch is nothing to write home about. It is filled with bushes, jaggars, loose rocks, and dirt. After completing the first pitch, I was going to not give this route any stars. I took a variety of gear for pitch one. From #0.3 BD C4 to #4 BD C4 and a set of nuts. I built a gear anchor using two #2 BD C4s and a #3 BD C4. If doing this in one pitch, doubles would be plenty, saving the extra gear I mentioned for the belay. If breaking into two pitches, singles would probably be fine with a few extra pieces.
The second pitch is outstanding and has great exposure going through the last two roofs. In BD C4s, we used one #2, two #3s, two #4s, and two #5s. We hauled a #6 up there but did not use it, but you probably could if you really wanted to.
Once you top out, there is one hell of a rats nest off to the right. One bolt with a loose hanger and a fixed stopper. There is another stopper hanging there that I guess came out. We backed this anchor up with a #6 Metolius (~ #1 BD C4). Be careful placing gear when you are about to top out, as you belay from directly across from the top, and your piece can get sucked into the crack. We almost got a #5 stuck. Bring a knife and new cord for the top anchor, as you can barely fit your rope through the two rap rings because there is so much tat looped through it.
Rap from the top over the lip and to the top of a pillar, where a decent set of anchors are. Rap once more to the ground, and walk around the corner back to your stuff. We used one 70m rope. You might be able to rap from the top with two ropes, but I can not confirm.