The Fountaine Bleu of Arkansas--the Fountaine Red!!
Fountaine Red has a high concentration of top notch boulder problems, free camping, and a nice remote setting in the Ozarks. The uber-classic Le Beak may be the best V4 in the world, and that is just the beginning. With Fred's Cave, The Power Wall, The Invasion, and more within short walking distance, it is arguable that the Fountaine Red area is one of the best destination bouldering areas in the United States with something for everyone on perfect Southern Sandstone.
Cole Fennel's "Rock Climbing Arkansas" guidebook for a preliminary taste of the area. Get ready for Cole Fennel's "Bouldering Arkansas-Comprehensive" in the winter of 2010 for a full coverage of all the areas that extend out from the one and only FOUNTAINE RED!
Second only to Le Beak, and an absolute moderate classic in its own right! Sit start and climb the perfect prow-like arete, pass the mystery eye, and rocket straight up to Uranus!...[more]Browse More Classics in AR
It is a tad tricky to find the first time. There is only one road that intersects the highway when going through Cowell. I believe it's labeled Cowell Rd 55 or some such, but like I said it's the only road. Just pay attention, it's not really a town. Just a few houses. Head east on the dirt road otherwise known as 1200. It's about five miles. You'll pass a few ATV roads labeled with brown forest service posts. The first is 1204a on the right, then 1204b, 1204c on the left, and then 1204d. Take the left on 1204d and head uphill a short way. You'll see the rock and there you go. The camping is right there. The climbing isn't real big, but it's quality. I took my son camping there a few weeks ago. With the leaves down you can see an abundance of rock in the area. I'm sure with a bit of exploring you can find a bunch more than is in the guide book.