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Found Ledge

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Little Slab, The 
Lumberjack Wall, The 
Main Cliff, The 

Found Ledge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.99234, -71.23135 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,627
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Oct 29, 2011
Forecast:
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41°
Wednesday

56° | 41°
Thursday

55° | 43°
Friday

62° | 46°
Saturday

61° | 47°
Sunday

59° | 38°
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BETA PHOTO: Large Dead Tree marks the start of the path

Description 

Found Ledge is a great little crag hosting some cool looking old school "sport" routes, slabs, and quality crack climbs. Found Ledge is a fun find, although a bit more obscure than its larger brother "Lost Ledge".

The Little Slab offers some nice 5.7 to 5.8+/5.9-, slab climbing fairly well protected with 3/8" bolts; some routes might even qualify as "sport" climbs. By moving about on lower-angled slab at the level of the anchors, one can even TR the more difficult climbs after leading one of the easier routes.

More serious "stuff" can be found on the Dunn Boulder , Main Wall, and the Lumberjack Wall.

These climbs are relatively short and the trees make this cliff slow to dry out.

Getting There 

From Conway, drive 4.9 miles west on the Kanc to a pulloff on the south side of the road. The pulloff is 1.2 miles east of the Albany Covered Bridge. (There is a "Scenic By-Ways" sign on the north [river] side of the road. (photo)]

About 100 yds west of the "Scenic By-Ways" sign (just where the road starts to curve) look for the big downed tree (photo), cross over the tree and in a few paces turn left (east) along a clear area (old logging road???) [You are now walking parallel to the Kanc* towards Conway.] Follow this 100 yds*, or so, until almost at the stream, turn right [cairn at base of tree] and follow a fairly cleared (2013-2014) path up through the woods. After 10-15 minutes up this path you'll go through a large blown-down tree, and 2-3 minutes later reach the stream at a large cairn (photo).

At the cairn, the best path now** is to cross the stream to the left and diagonal steeply up hill (the only even moderately steep terrain on the approach). About 5-10 minutes later the path will turn from spruce to hardwood forest and the path will swing around to the right and reach a "T-branch". [The "T" is before you step over the depression (which is the nascent stream bed) towards the Dunn Boulder, which should be easily visible (photo).] It should take you about 20-25 min. the first time you hike this, less once you know the path.

See the photo "Map of Area near cliffs".

Go straight ahead for the Dunn Boulder (photo) and the Main Cliff.

For Little Slab and Lumberjack Wall turn left before the Dunn Boulder [map in the Handren guide is wrong. Where the map shows moving left from the Main Wall is a jungle of boulders and vegetation. ] After turning left, the path moves through open hardwoods for a minute or two, passes to climber's right of a boulder, and then turns right to pick up the small drainage from the Little Slab and climbs directly up. About 1-2 minutes from the "T". Lumberjack is left of Little Slab.


[ * Yes, seemingly you could have parked the car this 100yds east of the big tree and saved this "backtracking", but the woods between the road and the clear (logging?) road are quite swampy and messy going. ]

[ ** An older, now more overgrown, approach may have followed the stream on the right up to the Dunn Boulder. ]

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.5 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Found Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Looks awesome but needs some scrubbin!

Short But Sweet 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13  NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : The Main Cliff
If you think you are solid with 5.10 cracks, try this one. A real"Jimmie 10d". It has not been done many times and could be a bit dirty, but what an awesome looking line....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Found Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of Area near the cliffs
BETA PHOTO: Map of Area near the cliffs
Rock Climbing Photo: Cairn at stream crossing. Path goes pretty much st...
BETA PHOTO: Cairn at stream crossing. Path goes pretty much st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunn Boulder - "Little Rage" 5.12a (bolt...
BETA PHOTO: Dunn Boulder - "Little Rage" 5.12a (bolt...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sign on the Kanc (facing westbound traffic), on th...
BETA PHOTO: Sign on the Kanc (facing westbound traffic), on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: near base of Found Ledge looking at The Little Sla...
BETA PHOTO: near base of Found Ledge looking at The Little Sla...
Rock Climbing Photo: Crag Y from Found Ledge
Crag Y from Found Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: a skull we found on the way in!
a skull we found on the way in!
Rock Climbing Photo: Leaves had collected and covered about 1-3 feet of...
Leaves had collected and covered about 1-3 feet of...

Comments on Found Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 12, 2010
I am excited to see what this place has to offer.

Do the boulders there look like they have anything good on them?
By apross
Apr 29, 2010
This is a great cliff and it would be a good public service duty to sort the approach out and give the crag some loving.
There is not a bad rte on it with all types of climbing.
I remember the boulders being high (15/20ft?) with a few problems.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 25, 2010
I think Jerry Handren has been going in here recently for his new book. Lot's of good lines.
By apross
May 25, 2010
yeah John, Jerry was just there and scrubbed the crag.
Get up there soon while its pristine!
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 31, 2011
We found it faster to bushwack from the parking to the cliff it only took like 25 to 35 minutes, and it was a flat walk if you followed it along the hillside.We also had a GPS
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Sep 23, 2013
APPROACH- The "Getting There" section has been updated.

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