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The Sentinel - East Face
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Fote Hog 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bob Dominick & John Wolfe 9/76
Page Views: 7,298
Submitted By: Ryan Avery on Jan 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (149)
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Dustin solos Fote Hog

Description 

This route is to the climber's right of Ball Bearing.

P1: Follow a large ramp to an easy fifth class face that's tricky to protect. Climb straight up for a few feet and belay from a small cave.

P2: Exit the cave and climb up on large patina flakes. If you go right the difficulty is 5.7, and if you go left it is 5.6. Belay from a large ledge and walk off to climber's left.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 3". Gear anchor.


Photos of Fote Hog Slideshow Add Photo
Patrick and Jason on fote hog and an unknown soloi...
Patrick and Jason on fote hog and an unknown soloi...
Unknown party ahead of my group on Fote Hog.
Unknown party ahead of my group on Fote Hog.
Photo just before the crux of Fote Hog, after the ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo just before the crux of Fote Hog, after the ...
Close up
Close up
The business
The business
A nice rest spot after the "big" move. P...
A nice rest spot after the "big" move. P...
racing daylight through the overhang
racing daylight through the overhang
A unique photo and a unique way of climbing Fote H...
A unique photo and a unique way of climbing Fote H...
Scott and Monica cruising Fote Hog on a warm after...
Scott and Monica cruising Fote Hog on a warm after...
Looking up the start
Looking up the start
Cruxing Fote Hog
Cruxing Fote Hog
P2
P2

Comments on Fote Hog Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 13, 2011
By Richard Beller
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a great route. Bring small to one inch cams and nuts.
By Drederek
Apr 5, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

P1 up the ramp, straight up from the tree, traverse under the roof to the patina and up to a huge ledge.P2 head right up double cracks, across ledge to awesome layback dihedral then a few awkward moves to the top.easy walkoff left as you face the climb.An excellent start to the day.
By Andy
Oct 4, 2005

It's short enough that it can be done in one pitch, but rope drag would be significant
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent route. It can easily be climbed in one pitch with a 60-meter rope and not too many placements (to avoid rope drag).
By Sam Prentice
Oct 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

Classic. A near perfect single pitch 5.6.

This overlooked and underrated route is likely the best 5.6 in the park: balancy face moves to start, an overhang with huge jugs, a nice bear hug/finger crack midway, and a solid layback to top it off.

Dr. Evil is right on: unless you're still gaining your lead head, do it in one pitch. Start at the top of the left leaning ramp, and conserve placements until you get to the overhang.

If you dont know how to reduce rope drag, this is a great route to learn!! There are so many places to set up a second belay, you have many "outs".
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

This is a fun and excellent route. May give the beginning .6 leader some trouble.
By Darren D.
Apr 2, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A "heady" 5.6 on pretty good rock. Typical J-Tree walk-off.
By Kanyu
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

My follower on this route is an experienced climber and he found the traverse to the bottom of the crux could be a bit eerie for the less experienced follower due to far apart pro from the beginning to the end of the traverse.

This route is in shade in the PM.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

The traverse looks kind of improbable from the ground. Probably better for an experienced 5.7 leader to lead. At the beginning of the climb where you follow a crack up (above a small tree) you can get a smaller nut (lower) and a TCU or Alien (around 3/4" size) a few feet higher. I only had a .75 camalot and couldnt get it in the narrow (height and width) crack so could only get 2 lobes in there and probably would have decked if falling form the traverse.

The traverse is all there for a taller person but can definitely make one nervous as a fall will cause injury probably. At the end of the 10'-15' traverse or so you can plug a good piece under the patina plates before going up over the patina plates. Once again height helps feel securer earlier on this part.

The rest of the climb is mostly walking up ledges with the exception of a finger lock move and a short lieback or hand jam section. Did it in one pitch (70 meter but 60 meter is fine). I didnt feel rope drag but didnt put much pro in.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

TCU's are a must for the opening section. Use lots of runners and a single 70m will get you to the top. Amazing exposure and wild moves for a 5.6!
By Nicole BI
From: Sunnyvale, CA
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found the traverse to be very difficult to protect convincingly and therefore rather scary. The moves are not difficult, but a fall could have serious consequences. Other than that I loved this climb, especially the huge juggy roof and the dihedral.
By Choss Chasin'
From: Torrance, CA
Oct 10, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun climb! Traverse was extremely easy but lacks any pro. The second pitch is like climbing several small boulder problems. The dihedral at the top was my favorite part.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 24, 2011

A really fun climb, where you will surely have a supportive audience on the weekends ;) I found this easier but more exposed than Mike's books, although both are excellent for bringing a beginner on their first multipitch.

Although improbably steep, the climb is so juggy that 5.6 is right on. Even though you could do this in 1 pitch, I don't know why you'd want to - the obvious belay ledge is excellent. I'd recommend building your anchor in the right crack (finger size nuts and cams) as the left one flexes slightly.

I'm inclined to disagree about the traverse being unprotectable, It seemed to me that strategic smaller cams sewed it up nicely. The walkoff is great, 2nd class and only takes 5-6 min.
By a little one goes up
Apr 27, 2011

I guess you can say I'm still getting my lead head....and I'm short...so the traverse was rather *exciting* - It was supposed to be my Sunday warm-up and I ended up being more scared on Fote Hog than any other climb I had done that weekend. Still, though - fun and recommended ;)
By Jim Amidon
Oct 28, 2011

Superb route for the grade.......
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First lead in the park. Got my attention as the first climb of the trip too - reminded myself its only 5.6 - the holds are there. I think I plugged a blue mastercam in the traverse start. Fun, cruiser lieback section up top too.
Walking by it two days later, saw someone going through the jug section - thought wow that looks like a fun 5.8-5.9 jug haul - traced their rope and realized it was Fote Hog!
By Jason Krug
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Loved the layback!!! The traverse definitely would be tricky if you were short.