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Scott and Monica cruising Fote Hog on a warm after...
This route is to the climber's right of Ball Bearing.
P1: Follow a large ramp to an easy fifth class face that's tricky to protect. Climb straight up for a few feet and belay from a small cave.
P2: Exit the cave and climb up on large patina flakes. If you go right the difficulty is 5.7, and if you go left it is 5.6. Belay from a large ledge and walk off to climber's left.
Standard Rack to 3". Gear anchor.
Unknown party ahead of my group on Fote Hog.
A nice rest spot after the "big" move. Photo by Ne...
BETA PHOTO: Photo just before the crux of Fote Hog, after the ...
Patrick and Jason on fote hog and an unknown soloi...
Cruxing Fote Hog
A unique photo and a unique way of climbing Fote H...
Dustin solos Fote Hog
Looking up the start
racing daylight through the overhang
|By Richard Beller|
Mar 23, 2005
This is a great route. Bring small to one inch cams and nuts.
Apr 5, 2005
P1 up the ramp, straight up from the tree, traverse under the roof to the patina and up to a huge ledge.P2 head right up double cracks, across ledge to awesome layback dihedral then a few awkward moves to the top.easy walkoff left as you face the climb.An excellent start to the day.
Oct 4, 2005
It's short enough that it can be done in one pitch, but rope drag would be significant
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
Excellent route. It can easily be climbed in one pitch with a 60-meter rope and not too many placements (to avoid rope drag).
|By Sam Prentice|
Oct 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 R
Classic. A near perfect single pitch 5.6.
This overlooked and underrated route is likely the best 5.6 in the park: balancy face moves to start, an overhang with huge jugs, a nice bear hug/finger crack midway, and a solid layback to top it off.
Dr. Evil is right on: unless you're still gaining your lead head, do it in one pitch. Start at the top of the left leaning ramp, and conserve placements until you get to the overhang.
If you dont know how to reduce rope drag, this is a great route to learn!! There are so many places to set up a second belay, you have many "outs".
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007
This is a fun and excellent route. May give the beginning .6 leader some trouble.
|By Darren D.|
Apr 2, 2007
A "heady" 5.6 on pretty good rock. Typical J-Tree walk-off.
Apr 9, 2007
My follower on this route is an experienced climber and he found the traverse to the bottom of the crux could be a bit eerie for the less experienced follower due to far apart pro from the beginning to the end of the traverse.
This route is in shade in the PM.
|By Mark L|
Apr 30, 2007
The traverse looks kind of improbable from the ground. Probably better for an experienced 5.7 leader to lead. At the beginning of the climb where you follow a crack up (above a small tree) you can get a smaller nut (lower) and a TCU or Alien (around 3/4" size) a few feet higher. I only had a .75 camalot and couldnt get it in the narrow (height and width) crack so could only get 2 lobes in there and probably would have decked if falling form the traverse.
The traverse is all there for a taller person but can definitely make one nervous as a fall will cause injury probably. At the end of the 10'-15' traverse or so you can plug a good piece under the patina plates before going up over the patina plates. Once again height helps feel securer earlier on this part.
The rest of the climb is mostly walking up ledges with the exception of a finger lock move and a short lieback or hand jam section. Did it in one pitch (70 meter but 60 meter is fine). I didnt feel rope drag but didnt put much pro in.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009
TCU's are a must for the opening section. Use lots of runners and a single 70m will get you to the top. Amazing exposure and wild moves for a 5.6!
|By Nicole Belle Isle|
From: Sunnyvale, CA
May 3, 2010
I found the traverse to be very difficult to protect convincingly and therefore rather scary. The moves are not difficult, but a fall could have serious consequences. Other than that I loved this climb, especially the huge juggy roof and the dihedral.
|By Choss Chasin'|
From: Lawndale, CA
Oct 10, 2010
Fun climb! Traverse was extremely easy but lacks any pro. The second pitch is like climbing several small boulder problems. The dihedral at the top was my favorite part.
|By Simon Hatfield|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 24, 2011
A really fun climb, where you will surely have a supportive audience on the weekends ;) I found this easier but more exposed than Mike's books, although both are excellent for bringing a beginner on their first multipitch.
Although improbably steep, the climb is so juggy that 5.6 is right on. Even though you could do this in 1 pitch, I don't know why you'd want to - the obvious belay ledge is excellent. I'd recommend building your anchor in the right crack (finger size nuts and cams) as the left one flexes slightly.
I'm inclined to disagree about the traverse being unprotectable, It seemed to me that strategic smaller cams sewed it up nicely. The walkoff is great, 2nd class and only takes 5-6 min.
|By a little one goes up|
Apr 27, 2011
I guess you can say I'm still getting my lead head....and I'm short...so the traverse was rather *exciting* - It was supposed to be my Sunday warm-up and I ended up being more scared on Fote Hog than any other climb I had done that weekend. Still, though - fun and recommended ;)
|By Jim Amidon|
Oct 28, 2011
Superb route for the grade.......
|By Matt N|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 31, 2011
First lead in the park. Got my attention as the first climb of the trip too - reminded myself its only 5.6 - the holds are there. I think I plugged a blue mastercam in the traverse start. Fun, cruiser lieback section up top too.
Walking by it two days later, saw someone going through the jug section - thought wow that looks like a fun 5.8-5.9 jug haul - traced their rope and realized it was Fote Hog!
|By Jason Krug|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 13, 2011
Loved the layback!!! The traverse definitely would be tricky if you were short.