Fossil Family 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Brad Buhrow, Eric Candee |
| Submitted By: | chad wolak on Jun 19, 2003 |
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Jacob flying through the traverse on Fossil Family...
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Description On the left side of the Nappy Dugout is Fossil Family. It's recognized by its first three bolts (homemade and shared with Family Unit) and by the right-trending and upward (of course) discontinuous seam that comprises its upper half.
Climb up to the third bolt, then move up and right along the seam for three more clips, passing a rooflet near the sixth bolt, to a two bolt anchor. STELLAR, power-sapping climbing on good holds adds up to a super-fun climb worthy of many stars.
After you send... do the next climber a favor by scrubbing one or two of the seam holds during your victorious lower from the anchors.... Maybe some day we'll be able to touch actual stone in the upper seam of Fossil Family?
Protection Eight quickdraws (includes the anchor).
Fossil Family - 5.12a.
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BETA PHOTO: Chris K. sticking the reachy lower crux move.
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Route
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Diana Rogers leading Fossil Family.
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Diana Rogers clipping.
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Low on Fossil Family.
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Upper crux on Fossil Family.
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Rest after low crux.
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| Comments on Fossil Family |
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By chad wolak
Jan 23, 2004
| This comment is to supplement the above route description :
Sometime in the fall of 2003 I noticed the first three homemade bolts of this route have been replaced with modern bolts. Also, in-situ lower chains are installed. |
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2007
| Very, very fun route. Well worth doing. |
By dbyte
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| I second Dr. Evil's opinion - good movements on generally decent holds, but still somehow deceptively pumpy. Also has fixed draws to simplify getting on it. I imagine cleaning the gear would add a crux. |
By Evan Winn
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Check the in-situ draw on the last bolt. A sharp bit of rock likes to eat thruogh the webbing at the top biner. Draws don't last long on that bolt. There is a "new" one up now and the fall is clean if the draw fails but still be aware.
Other than that, it is an excellent climb, and I highly recommend it, even if you don't consider yourself a 5.12 climber (due to strength or injury). Good holds make it accessible, but the pump and power moves makes it worth the rating. |
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