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Fortress Wall

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American Crack T 
American Wall T 
Battlement, The T 
Bedtime for Bonzo T 
Blue Runner T 
Bombs Bursting T 
Calypso I T 
Calypso II T 
Calypso III T 
Fading Memory T 
Get Outta My Way T 
Horny Bitch T 
Party Time T 
Route 48 T 
Scratch Your Face T 
Serpent T 
Snake T 
Thunder Chicken T 
Turret, The T 
Where Lizards Dare T 

Fortress Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8417, -83.64379 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,741
Administrators: Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 4, 2006
Forecast:
Today

61-86°F
Mon

64-89°F
Tue

67-85°F
Wed

66-89°F
Thu

66-86°F
Fri

69-74°F
You & This Area
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For those who don't jam... there is another way......

Description 

This is the best crag in the RRG for learning trad climbing. There is the greatest concentration of easier routes, with quality routes at every grade from 5.6 to 5.11.

The aspect is generally southern, with some routes getting morning sun and some getting afternoon. The wall is hot in summer, but somewhat sheltered in light rain.

There are a few easy and moderate multi-pitch routes so this is also a great wall to get a little MP practice in a well travelled setting.

Fortress can be very crowded at times. Large groups often take over the crag which can ruin everyone's day.

If you are a trad climber and visit the area you can't pass up spending some time here.

Getting There 

Parking area GPS: 37.8380, -83.6440

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fortress Wall:
Calypso III   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Route 48   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
American Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
American Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bedtime for Bonzo   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Calypso II   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Calypso I   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   
Party Time   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Horny Bitch   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Bombs Bursting   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   
Snake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blue Runner   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Where Lizards Dare   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Fortress Wall

Featured Route For Fortress Wall
Tony Bubb Starts Up Party Time (5.7, Fortress Wall...

Party Time 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall
One of the nicest moderate trad routes in the Red, and it takes good gear if you have it. The first pitch takes a few larger cams (perhaps to 4") and the scond pitch a standard light rack. Bolted belay/rap anchors make this climb a good first multi-pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Comments on Fortress Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
Outstanding trad area, but if you're not prepared for Gunks-style sandbagging, you'll get a rude awakening!
By Drake Pregnall
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 19, 2012
Absolutely agree with you there. I climb in the Gunks and the Adirondacks regularly, two very sandbagged places, and I still found the Fortress Wall grades to be a bit stiff.
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014
Approach: Park at the 2nd pullout with a wooden post and forest service sign (but no wording, just wood). Can park about 5 cars. Approach is about 10 minutes and you'll wind up at the Snake 5.8 Trad 60 feet climb.
By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Jan 19, 2015
End Of Fortress Approach trail: 37.837337,-83.647221

Watch out for MASSIVE amount of poison ivy along the approach "in season."

While not every single climb will be dry, lots of climbable routes in light/medium rain due to a large roof system over this crag. Fantastic crag for the beginning trad leader. Sandbagged? Definitely maybe. But not atypical of the northern gorge region at all.
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