|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 115'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Marius vanderMerwe on Jul 1, 2010|
|Cougar Cliffs are located in the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve, and managed by Snow Canyon S.P. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Forsaken||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Sep 16, 2014
|The first bolt is pretty low and when you go to clip the second bolt there is potential to deck. That being said it's like three 5.6 moves to get to the second bolt, so not sketchy at all. I would recommend skipping the first bolt because it doesn't seem like it would do anything anyways. The remainder of the bolt placements are well thought out and protect the multitude of 10- moves. The crux for me was getting onto the face (super fun), after that it was stellar slab climbing. The second pitch rock looked less-than-ideal but turned out to be bomber, just as fun as the first pitch only not as hard, maybe 5.9+, and completely different; it's like the second pitch stole all the buckets from the first pitch. By far my favorite route at the cliffs.|
By Dr. Dan
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
5 days ago
Here is the skinny as of 11/18/2014. There are 3 routes bolted from the bottom to the mid station and 2 routes to the top.
From R to left:
1) Starts on horizontal bars through overhang to decent 10 moves to very, very thin, shallow pockets (?11d-12). 1st bolt is at 12 feet just over the cave moves. Crux is the thin section and is well bolted, but very challenging (for me). Climbing gets easier after the thin crux. If you want to go from the anchors on P1 to P2 you need to traverse L about 10-15 feet on easy, but unprotected ground. From there both upper routes are accessible.
2) Forsaken is the middle route on the bottom. Agree that the first bolt is not much help. There may be some 5.6 moves L (per previous description), but going through the over hang was 10ish. The crux thin moves are not as hard as the route on the far right. Continues thin, but not as cruxy to the anchors. From here can take either upper line for P2. I took the far L line, i.e. Heavens a Lie. I think this upper line is a blast. Steep (a little overhanging the whole way) with fun moves and good hands. The rock can still be a little crumbly so be careful, but overall good quality stone. Have not done the top pitch of Forsaken yet.
3) Heaven's a Lie: Far left and have not done the bottom pitch