|The New River Wall
|Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>|
Start as Dark Waters but move right.
Underneath Sonic Youth.
Pads and a good heel hooking shoe.
Jason Baker working "Formula 50 (V10/11)" at the "...
Sep 23, 2009
rating: V10 7C+
As far as I know this was established as a V10 and I don't think the consensus has changed on that. Essentially it is one hard move.
Beta: Begin as for Dark Waters on jug underclings. Back step left foot on a chip and surge out to the good (and large) left hand sidepull. Adjust to get into the crimp on the far left side of the hold. Swing left foot over to a small knob in the roof, and set the heel hook on the horn that your left hand had used to start. I flag my left foot and go out to a bad right hand sidepull/undercling (crux). Bump left hand into the better sidepull/undercling another foot. Set a left toe hook by your left hand and go to a good jug. I'm sure you can figure it out from there.
Tall Man Beta:
Begin as for Dark Waters on jug underclings. Back step left foot on a chip and surge out to the good (and large) left hand sidepull (from climber's perspective). Then jump your left heel by your left hand and flag (catching a toehook that helps squeeze) then fall into the bad sidepull in the roof with your right hand, set and go again with the right hand to a higher sidepull which is bigger but at a worse angle. From here I switch my left heel hook to a toe hook and pull up high on my left hand in order to fall into (powerful) the decent sidepull (used as a heel hook on Dark Waters. Scoot your right foot up and in and go left hand again to a good jug, match it and its easy.
|By Luke Childers|
Jan 19, 2010
rating: V11 8A
This is such a good problem!!! It's nice to work this one with the river frozen and the holds crisp!! Still a hard one for me but it's just to good to not try some more!!!