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Upper Devil's Playground
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Formicae S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Formicae 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Cory Fleagle, prior to bolts being placed
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: Ben Boykin on Aug 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Northeast side of the "Limbo" crags on 7...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is on the lower Northeast Slab. It has a bouldery start, per-move bolt clips. It is quite thin. The name is Latin for "ants," which abundantly populate this slab. The bolts were installed without prior knowledge of previous ascents, in late July, 2011. The bolted version was first lead 8/5/11.

Location 

Stem the corbel with your left hand, place your left foot here as well.

Protection 

4 quickdraws (recommended single locking 'biner on the first clip).


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By Cor
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Been camping here for years, doing this as a highball boulder problem.
If you put a pad under it, I don't even think you could get hurt!

You can stand on the ground and clip the first one? Bad form for Vedauwoo... no route should have a bolt that you can clip from the start without leaving the ground.
By Thom Engelbach
Aug 29, 2012

I have to admit that I was a bit nervous when I on-sight soloed this, before the bolts were installed.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 29, 2012

Ha ha, I totally remember that. There was a pile of us camped there and randy brought a bunch of brisket. I had a few barley sodas, looked up, and figured you guys were working on a Darwin Award. It looked pretty sketchy!
By Cor
Aug 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Go for it, slim! I bet you can even clip the 2nd bolt when the
1st one is at your waist. Technically, that would be a top rope
(otherwise known as a safety bend).

But I have to ask, did I scare you, or Thom, or both? ;D
By slim
Administrator
Aug 30, 2012

I think both of you were worrying me. Not to mention there were a few dogs that seemed like they wanted to follow you guys up it. Did Jacob do it also? Can't remember, I think he was there, but he has mo' bwains. That was a fun trip, lot of folks there.