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Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
Left of 5.10 Flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Formerly Aided 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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JP doing battle with his first 5.11 onsight.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route is one of the more consitent off-fingers routes at indian creek. It is also one of the better quality corners to be had at this cliff.

Find a well-chalked left-facing off-fingers crack in a dark rock area, just a ways right of Dawn Of An Age, and left of the namesake Blue Gramma pitch. Run up sustained off-hands (too thin) and finger stacks with laybacks, pumping with few rests for 90' to the anchors. SWEET.

People with sausage-like fingers may find it easier, but skinny fingered climbers will find it hard. It's moves and dark varnish texture are both reminiscent of The Wave - this route may be shorter, but seems pumpy, for lack of rests and thinner size.


Small cams and TCU's , mostly 1" and 1.5"

Photos of Formerly Aided Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick O'Connell on the OS of Formerly Aided  ben...
Patrick O'Connell on the OS of Formerly Aided ben...

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By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 8, 2002

5 x .5 2 x .75 and 1 x 2 cammolts. I have super fat fingers so they fight tight yet I layed the corner back and found two full on stemming no hands rests. Despite being a bit short I agree this is one og the best finger corners at the creek that I have been on thus far.
By Anthony Everhart
Nov 30, 2003

I wouldn't say this climb is sustained. My legs were more burnt than my arms. Lots of foot holds and stemming leads to a section of blank walls. Put a cam in up high and go for it, you will be rewarded.A. Everhart
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

No way. This is rated 5.11? I onsighted a 5.11 in the creek? wahoo!
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great climb and a good warm-up for Blue Gramma
By RyanO
From: sunshine
Jun 12, 2012

I found a lot more green C4s than purple on this route, the first 10 feet of the splitter, then another short section up higher was purple, then the rest was green. I did it with 1 gray, 2 purples, 3 greens, 1 red, and 1 yellow (in that order).

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