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 ADVANCED
Blue Gramma Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Gramma T 
Dawn of an Age T,TR 
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 
Event Horizon, The T 
Formerly Aided T 
Hayley's Heyday T 
Left of 5.10 Flake T 
Moon Goddess Revenge T 
Orion's Bow T 
Petrelli Motors T 
Price of Evil, The T 
Unknown far left T 
Unknown far left - II T 
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Formerly Aided 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,203
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 23, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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JP doing battle with his first 5.11 onsight.

Description 

This route is one of the more consitent off-fingers routes at indian creek. It is also one of the better quality corners to be had at this cliff.

Find a well-chalked left-facing off-fingers crack in a dark rock area, just a ways right of Dawn Of An Age, and left of the namesake Blue Gramma pitch. Run up sustained off-hands (too thin) and finger stacks with laybacks, pumping with few rests for 90' to the anchors. SWEET.

People with sausage-like fingers may find it easier, but skinny fingered climbers will find it hard. It's moves and dark varnish texture are both reminiscent of The Wave - this route may be shorter, but seems pumpy, for lack of rests and thinner size.

Protection 

Small cams and TCU's , mostly 1" and 1.5"


Photos of Formerly Aided Slideshow Add Photo
Patrick O'Connell on the OS of Formerly Aided  ben...
Patrick O'Connell on the OS of Formerly Aided ben...

Comments on Formerly Aided Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 8, 2002

5 x .5 2 x .75 and 1 x 2 cammolts. I have super fat fingers so they fight tight yet I layed the corner back and found two full on stemming no hands rests. Despite being a bit short I agree this is one og the best finger corners at the creek that I have been on thus far.
By Anthony Everhart
Nov 30, 2003

I wouldn't say this climb is sustained. My legs were more burnt than my arms. Lots of foot holds and stemming leads to a section of blank walls. Put a cam in up high and go for it, you will be rewarded.A. Everhart
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009

No way. This is rated 5.11? I onsighted a 5.11 in the creek? wahoo!
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great climb and a good warm-up for Blue Gramma
By RyanO
From: sunshine
Jun 12, 2012

I found a lot more green C4s than purple on this route, the first 10 feet of the splitter, then another short section up higher was purple, then the rest was green. I did it with 1 gray, 2 purples, 3 greens, 1 red, and 1 yellow (in that order).
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