Formerly Aided 5.11
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Apr 23, 2002 |
| |
JP doing battle with his first 5.11 onsight.
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Description This route is one of the more consitent off-fingers routes at indian creek. It is also one of the better quality corners to be had at this cliff.
Find a well-chalked left-facing off-fingers crack in a dark rock area, just a ways right of Dawn Of An Age, and left of the namesake Blue Gramma pitch. Run up sustained off-hands (too thin) and finger stacks with laybacks, pumping with few rests for 90' to the anchors. SWEET.
People with sausage-like fingers may find it easier, but skinny fingered climbers will find it hard. It's moves and dark varnish texture are both reminiscent of The Wave - this route may be shorter, but seems pumpy, for lack of rests and thinner size.
Protection Small cams and TCU's , mostly 1" and 1.5"
| Comments on Formerly Aided |
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By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Jul 8, 2002
| 5 x .5 2 x .75 and 1 x 2 cammolts. I have super fat fingers so they fight tight yet I layed the corner back and found two full on stemming no hands rests. Despite being a bit short I agree this is one og the best finger corners at the creek that I have been on thus far. |
By Anthony Everhart
Nov 30, 2003
| I wouldn't say this climb is sustained. My legs were more burnt than my arms. Lots of foot holds and stemming leads to a section of blank walls. Put a cam in up high and go for it, you will be rewarded.A. Everhart |
By Bob Dobalina
Jun 11, 2009
| No way. This is rated 5.11? I onsighted a 5.11 in the creek? wahoo! |
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.11-
| Great climb and a good warm-up for Blue Gramma |
By RyanO
From: Golden, CO
Jun 12, 2012
| I found a lot more green C4s than purple on this route, the first 10 feet of the splitter, then another short section up higher was purple, then the rest was green. I did it with 1 gray, 2 purples, 3 greens, 1 red, and 1 yellow (in that order). |
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