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Viewfinder Towers
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Bensass T 
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 
Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 
Meat Log T 
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 
Princess Bong T 
Strummer 

Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 190', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2 [details]
FA: Crusher, Strappo, October 18, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Dec 6, 2012

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Strappo reaching for the summit

Description 

Start on the bubbly south face. Route works up and leftwards, ending in a southwest-facing chimney slot at the top. First pitch is great, other pitches not so much. Exploring the summit area labyrinth is much fun. If this cleans up it might go free.

P1: Climb steep pockets for 20 feet to ledge. Gain a ledge and move left into a right-facing dihedral with roof at top. Up this, mantel onto big ledge on left and build a belay (5.8+R, 50’). A fun pitch on surprisingly good rock!
P2: Angle left (5.8) into the leftmost of three cracks. Aid this to end, over bulges to a big ledge system and a two-bolt belay (5.8, A2, 50’).
P3: Move up and left with care, around some dubious blocks, into a chimney. Up this to a two-bolt belay (5.7, A1, 50’).
From here the true summit is some distance away. Negotiate crenelations and secret passageways to get there (4th-class with one aid move, 150’).

Location 

This is a semi-detached blocky formation in the Viewfinder Towers area, a few miles north of Hanksville. Castle Ardbeg sits on the east side of the road, between Strummer and Planet X, at the far right end of the cliffs behind Planet X, recognizable by the distinctive “drawbridge” feature connecting it to the main cliff-face.

Protection 

Cams: 2-3 sets from green Alien to #4 Friend, optional Valley Giant for P3.
Nuts: 2 sets (three on pitch 2 were tapped into place with hammer).
Pitons: 1 Tomahawk (small). 3-4 LA/baby angles could substitute for the tapped “stopperheads”.
Quickdraws and slings to prevent ropedrag.


Photos of Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour Slideshow Add Photo
Strappo, at top of pitch 3
Strappo, at top of pitch 3
Topo of the route. Strummer is on the far right
BETA PHOTO: Topo of the route. Strummer is on the far right
nice Tomahawk, pitch 2.
nice Tomahawk, pitch 2.
Looking down pitch 2
Looking down pitch 2
Crusher, starting up pitch 2
Crusher, starting up pitch 2

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