24. Mindbleeder 12a 25. Crank it or Yank it 12b 26. Chains 27. Face Up 12b (23, 24, 25 by a big rock) 28. Project 29. Bumblies in the Dark 11c/d
The Small Wall has 3 climbs, left to right, these are short stout routes:
1. American Hardcore 12b 2. Life O'Riely 13+? (moves right over the upper right seam) 3. Get Shorty 12a/b
Park at the small pullout just past the Hell Cave parking lot (the pullout on the right immediately following the 11-mile sign).
Walk down the hill to where a pipe used to span the river; cross the river then head immediately left.
Follow the trail past a fire pit and up a talus slope. The Small Wall will be approximately half way up the talus on the left - continue up the slope until the trail cuts right through the trees. This is Forgotten Trails. Plan 30 minutes.
Really good route on excellent golden stone. I climbed up, clipped the first bolt, got onto the big ledge and clipped the second bolt and then reached down and un-clipped the first bolt to prevent rope drag. Balancy and subtle for the first three bolts. Precise and sequential footwork is necessary. The next three bolts are easier climbing on cool flat and occasionally incut edges. Another crux awaits at the sixth bolt, some flagging might be the trick to grabbing the big left facing flake pinch....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
There is no longer a pipe to cross the river (removed). Drive .7 miles from TCNM and park at the pull-out. Look for a way to cross the river and then walk up stream to find a trail to Forgotten Trails.
Some of the ratings seem a little off but the routes here are good enough not to care about what's this rating or that rating. We parked at the Hell parking area and crossed a large log (solid right now) and then headed back upstream along a faint trail in tall grass. Where the large pipe used to be, look for a hidden campsite in the woods. The trail begins from the campsite.