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Forgotten Passage T 
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Forgotten Passage 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 107
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Aug 25, 2003

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Description 

This is the only route currently published on The Throne. It begins in an alcove on the NE face, West of the obvious splitter offwidth. It is not very good, but from it, you can see some good routes! Entirely Forgettable.

The first pitch is a complete pile. Climb up to a traverse on a slopey ramp pass a fixed pin, and climb up the horrible crack/munge system to a low angled ramp system. Belay before the ledge turns slabby. My partner was terrified on this pitch. 5.8

The second pitch is a little better. Climb into the dihedral, through a bush of two, and undercling around a small roof. The undercling moves are fun, but there is enough lichen crunchin' under your toes to steal some joy. Belay in a comfy spot below the summit cracks. 5.8+

The third pitch can have many options, and they are all pretty good. There are at least three good cracks to use from the ledge. The best is the obvious handcrack avove the belay. Beyond this handcrack, follow moderate slabby terrain to the top of the rock. 5.9

I found an old nut with chewed up webbing at the top. I added a couple nuts and a sling of my own to rap off to a large ledge to the West. Two ropes will reach the ground off the steep backside as well.

Protection 

Standard Rack to #3 Camalot. Some bigger gear can be used on the wider finishes.Bring a couple slings and a meduim nut or two to bail if the fixed gear is missing at the top.


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