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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Forever Young 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D'Antonio and Ruiz, 1990
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

60 feet left of Brown Sugar and just after the deep slots is a sweeping prow or nose-like formation which hosts Forever Young. Cruxy off the ground, Forever Young fires up this yellowish wall on shallow pockets and an occasional razor thin edge. Step right after 30 feet to cop a small, balancy rest. The route steepens up and seems to get progressively harder the closer you get to the anchor, a bit like the mountains in Oz that never seem to get any closer. Excellent, technical climbing that always feels committing makes the line worth at least two stars. This route seems to have a considerable mental aspect to it. Several years ago we ran TR laps on it after stringing it up, and the moves all seemed so reasonable!


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 26, 2006

I remember it differently. Hard moves at the start on suh-WEET pockets to a ledge (fun mantel). Then the crux is getting off that ledge onto the slab. The slab is pretty moderate.

By NEH
Apr 5, 2011

I climbed this thing today, what a great route! I think Mike's description is a little closer, though for me the crux was the low pocket section and the move up to the slab didn't seem too bad. The climbing at the top is consistent 5.11 face climbing on (for Penitente) generally positive edges. The nut on the second bolt was loose, I didn't have a wrench, so it's just "finger" tightened, just an FYI.

By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

To clarify the location of this route a bit (since a few "new" routes have gone in between this and Candy Apple Grey)- this route is easily identifiable by a high first bolt just below the sloping ledge and by a 4-finger pocket and then a 2-finger pocket on the face below this ledge. For me, the crux was the mantle.

By Chris Mack
May 19, 2013

Interesting comments that give some insight into the different strengths of fellow climbers. I don't think the starting moves are hard, just big (really big). I thought the mantle was exciting, and the final headwall was sustained burl! Fantastic, sustained, and (somewhat) varied!