|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||Bill Boyle - March, 1991|
|Submitted By:||Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2007|
|Comments on Forever Man||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Layton, UT
Jan 19, 2016
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wow, I don't agree with most of the description for this climb. This is honestly the most fun route I have ever done. The rock may look kind of chossy, but all the holds felt solid and the rock quality actually felt really good. As far as the movement being boring, I highly disagree, you want boring movement go climb Namaste in Kolob canyon, this route has pretty much every type of movement you could imagine and the climbing feels very 3-d and fun.
As far as the rating, the guidebook gives it 5.12c, but the route felt like a very hard 5.12c to me (maybe I didn't find all of the rests, but there's no way it's 5.12b). None of the individual moves are all that difficult, but the very overhanging nature of the route, coupled with the crux coming between the last bolt and the anchors makes this a very tough route for the grade. Also, unless you are very tall and very flexible, there is no way you are stemming between the two walls to get to the anchor clipping jug. I'm 6'0" and fairly flexible, and it was painful to stem between the walls after getting to the anchor clipping jug, no way I would have been able to get that stem before having the jug.
The route has been re-bolted with wave bolts, and has climb-tech steel cable perma-draws hanging currently. Most of the other routes in the cave also have steel permadraws, so if you're hiking up just to climb in the cave you can leave the draws at home, or just bring a few for the short 5.12a as it didn't have any as of 1-18-16.
My advice to all, get on this route it is amazing!