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Sun Cave
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Forever Man S 

Forever Man 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Bill Boyle - March, 1991
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2007

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Forever Man

Description 

Forever Man is the longest line in the Sun Cave and is very, very steep. I can't remember doing a route that consistently climbs at a 45 degree angle for so long. The quality of the climbing is somewhat lacking: some choss, a cave, fairly boring movement, but it is quite the so-pump-journ in topsy-turvy world.

Begin on the left side of a prow feature at the entrance of the cave, clipping the first bolt from some cheater blocks and then pulling up onto the arete and climbing along the entrance to the cave. Some good rests high on the route precede the most difficult sections, including a desperate move to the anchor clipping jug (made easier by a stem to the adjacent wall). Nothing checks in at 5.12, but 16 clips of muscle make it feel hard. A 60m (probably even a 50m) cord will get you to the ground safely.

Protection 

16 draws. Masks for climber and belayer to protect from Hantavirus.


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The Start of "Forever Man"

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