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The Central Wall
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Forest of Fangorn 
Fortitude, Pitch 1 
Intimidation 
White Eye, pitch 1 

Forest of Fangorn 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 400', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b A3 [details]
FA: Dave Linden/Joe Cote Summer, 1976
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 11, 2009
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This is a shot off the direct start to fanghorn on...

Description 

P1-just left of the cave there is a right slanting crack that unfortunitly has a couple bolts next to it. Clean gear/nailing up this short overhanging wall gets you to a stance at another inside corner, follow this up for 15' till you get to a horizontal seam. Nail this (blades, thin LA, rurp's) to the vertical crack coming out of ballhog. Follow this to the anchor. The anchor could still use some work, we added a bolt to the fixed bong and nut. A3 P2-Nail up and left out the overhanging wallup a slightly rotten flake. Follow the flake till it ends then free climb/hook/nail over to the ledge at the end of the pendulum undercling pitch. A3 P3-Climb down and right along the ledge till it ends, attempt to protect, then hook and nail up a 15'wall to a ledge and a fixed bong rappel point, lower into the cathedral direct chimney till you gain a crack system on the right hand wall. Free climb up this and over to Bonfire. A3 5.6 (scary) P4-Off the extreme left side of the bonfire ledge there is a second chimney to the left of cathedral direct. Think vertical kitty litter buttcrack. Chimney and aid (there is a thin rotten crack on the left hand side) up this for 50' till you get to a small ledge with an OLD bolt. Nail a right slanting crack to the end and belay on old bolts. A3 5.6 (scary) P5-Use bolts (3?) to gain a horizontal crack, nail/clean aid left around a corner into a vertical groove (water course, ie rotten). Follow the groove till you can break left again and gain a ledge, belay in vertical crack on the ledge. A3 P6-follow the vertical crack up the slabs to the top.


Location 

Left hand side of the cave there is a pretty right slanting crack with a few bolts, this is the start. I think it's a sport climb, Lucifer...


Protection 

Full clean aid rack, full nailing rack, feature hooks, drill. You want a nailing route, here you go.



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By nooky brown
Sep 11, 2009

ahhhhh........ok, makes sense.
I will keep it hush hush and wait for the descriptions.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 12, 2009

Sorry, I know. I go at it sans guidebook and just draw the route from memory. I like to write what I remember of a route, the good, the bad the ugly, and then back check against the guide book. I don't just want to write what's in the guidebook. Anybody can get one of those. Forest's was a hard route for my partner and I, I wanted to translate that into the post. But thanks, I will fix the FA.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 13, 2009

That's Fangorn, translated as Treebeard in the Common Speech...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 14, 2009

Alright, maybe I do need a guidebook. I'll finish this post today and correct all oopsies. I always mess up my entish to common translations.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 16, 2009

As promised, cleaned up and complete. Great route, really good intro into harder nailing.