Foreplay 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | T. Davis, K. Rich, D. Rubine, R. Rubine, 12/88. |
| Submitted By: | Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007 |
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Chris Archer also escaping from the Yosemite flood...
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a steep climb, described in the guidebook as "spectacular" which certainly draws the eye. It seems to climb steeper than it looks.
Ascend a slightly-overhanging face past 8 bolts. The guidebook notes it was originally climbed without the first bolt.
Location This is on the far left side of the east face of the Monolith. It is left of Post Orgasmic Depression & Several Small Species.
Protection 8 bolts and an anchor.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 23, 2008
| Really good route, more techy and devious than POD and with a much more tenuous crux. Great sport climbing. |
By Ian Walters
Dec 30, 2008
| Airy, sustained route with a cool feature and a great crux. Killer route! |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 24, 2009
| More technical and interesting climbing than POD but also with hollower rock at the top.
Has anyone taken a no hands at the 5th bolt in the scoop? Possibly facing out straddling the knob. |
By Keith Forest
May 26, 2010
| I have gotten a no hands rest in the scoop by hooking a butt check on the obvious knob. It takes a little rear-end finagling to find the right position and balance. It's a weird position but makes for a good photo op as well as rest. Probably only possible for those of us 5'7" or less. |
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