Foreplay starts a few feet to the left of Orgasm. Look for the obvious off-fingers/small-hands crack on a slightly less-than-vertical wall, flanked by positive holds. The route ascends this this crack and face holds (particularly those face holds to the right near or on Cliff's Coitus) to a ledge with a pine tree about 20-25 feet off the deck. From the tree it ascends some blocky climbing to another ledge. At this ledge it is possible to make a traverse up-and-to-the-right into a v-slot. After arriving in the v-slot it is possible to finish up-and-right to the ledge above Orgasm (where the easier anchor setup is), or go direct up overhanging blocky holds (depositing the climber on a ledge with few choices for anchoring).
Foreplaycan be protected extremely well, and would make an excellent first-lead for a competent toproper ready to take the next step. This is all-the-more true given that it has several opportunities (the ledges) to rest and fully recover (or even possibly escape to easier terrain) as well as the opportunity to sling what seems to be a solid tree for protection at the first ledge. First-time leaders would be well-advised to use the right-hand finish.
I agree with the three star rating this site gave this climb. Some of the guide books rate it at only one star. Many of the moves require technique, and I find that enjoyable. Also, there are lots of places to set pro. These two things are why I think this rout defiantly has a three star climb
I think the route deserves the 5.6 rating, while the pro is stellar, there are a few areas where a fall would not be such a good thing. I'm thinking of the 2-4 moves above the tree in the crack. Falling through this section, while you're on solid pro, you pretty much guarantee that you're going to hit the tree in some way shape or form. For the novice leader ( I include myself in this ) its a bit of a head check, and makes the route that much more enjoyable.
While your statement about the moves past the tree providing a headcheck is certainly true, it does not have an effect on the difficulty rating. By difficulty this route is significantly easier than Brinton's, Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective, and Full Stop all of which are probably benchmark 5.6 at DL (however if someone wanted to call Brinton's 5.7 I might not argue with them).
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Apr 24, 2007 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Foreplay is 5.5 compared to other similar routes at DL. I think it is much easier than The Bone.
In retrospect, I concur, the potential fall above the tree does not make the route harder. This was my first lead 2 weekends ago(not counting the 5.2 SW corner of Leaning Tower which I lead 20 mins before this route) and it was really a great time. I plan to lead Full Stop when I'm at the Lake next and really look for the differences in the crux moves. I've never been up Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective or Brinton's (this route is always plugged). I've done Full Stop a few times and I can think of a couple moves that are harder than Foreplay. You guys are right, it is 5.5, I just can't help but remember the first time I thruchted my way to the top of this route and thought it was super hard. The exposure on the last two moves is not to be missed!
This 5.6 is perhaps the easiest 5.6 I've ever done at DL. It's even easier than another 5.5, Pine Tree D at the Railway. But I think it really doesn't matter; insofar as the rating goes, does much of those 'moderate,' 5.9-below leading routes at DL really matter anyway? It's a great route by any measure.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Apr 25, 2013 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
This is a fantastic little lead! Great gear and a variety of features.