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Rainy Wednesday Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balcony, The TR 
Birnam Wood T 
Cerebration T,TR 
Cliff's Coitus T,TR 
Double Overhang T,TR 
Eave of Destruction T 
False Alarm Jam T,TR 
Foreplay T,TR 
Friendly Banter T,TR 
Green Bulge TR 
Hare-Brained Scheme T,TR 
Hirsute TR 
Jungle VIP TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Mezzanine, The T,TR 
Miss Piggy's Pleasure T,TR 
New Light Waves TR 
Orgasm T,TR 
Orgasm Direct T 
Out of the Woods T,TR 
Resolution TR 
Resurrection TR 
Second Balcony T,TR 
Second Coming TR 
Unnamed 5.4 T,TR 

Foreplay 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,487
Submitted By: James M Schroeder on May 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (61)
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1st piece on Foreplay. My first lead, too.

Description: 

Foreplay starts a few feet to the left of Orgasm. Look for the obvious off-fingers/small-hands crack on a slightly less-than-vertical wall, flanked by positive holds. The route ascends this this crack and face holds (particularly those face holds to the right near or on Cliff's Coitus) to a ledge with a pine tree about 20-25 feet off the deck. From the tree it ascends some blocky climbing to another ledge. At this ledge it is possible to make a traverse up-and-to-the-right into a v-slot. After arriving in the v-slot it is possible to finish up-and-right to the ledge above Orgasm (where the easier anchor setup is), or go direct up overhanging blocky holds (depositing the climber on a ledge with few choices for anchoring).

Foreplay can be protected extremely well, and would make an excellent first-lead for a competent toproper ready to take the next step. This is all-the-more true given that it has several opportunities (the ledges) to rest and fully recover (or even possibly escape to easier terrain) as well as the opportunity to sling what seems to be a solid tree for protection at the first ledge. First-time leaders would be well-advised to use the right-hand finish.

Protection: 

Nuts (offsets particularly useful)
48" (120cm) sling (for the tree)
Camalots .5-2
Metolius TCUs Blue-Red


Photos of Foreplay Slideshow Add Photo
Foreplay and Orgasm
BETA PHOTO: Foreplay and Orgasm
Jason Willis near the top of the crack on Foreplay.
Jason Willis near the top of the crack on Foreplay...
Foreplay with Kelly being lowered.
Foreplay with Kelly being lowered.
Foreplay anchor
BETA PHOTO: Foreplay anchor

Comments on Foreplay Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2014
By Jeff H
Jun 14, 2002

This is a nice lead with very solid pro.
By Michael Del Gaudio
Aug 12, 2002

I agree with the three star rating this site gave this climb. Some of the guide books rate it at only one star. Many of the moves require technique, and I find that enjoyable. Also, there are lots of places to set pro. These two things are why I think this rout defiantly has a three star climb
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Oct 26, 2002
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a



This goes a lot easier than False Alarm Jam.
By Cory Bartholomew
From: Ístersund, Sweden
Dec 4, 2002

Awesome beginner's lead route. Gobbles up pro. Definitely softer rating than alot of the 5.6's in the neighborhood
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 26, 2004

Excellent Climb. Definately makes a good lead with solid pro. The lower crux can be nicely protected with a small/medium stopper. The last few moves feel slightly exposed but are on great holds. -Amos
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Jan 17, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

5.5 by Devil's Lake standards. Compared to Brinton's this is cake, not to mention it's Disneyland safe. Still's it's a classic and not to be missed.
By Andy Bissell
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I think the route deserves the 5.6 rating, while the pro is stellar, there are a few areas where a fall would not be such a good thing. I'm thinking of the 2-4 moves above the tree in the crack. Falling through this section, while you're on solid pro, you pretty much guarantee that you're going to hit the tree in some way shape or form. For the novice leader ( I include myself in this ) its a bit of a head check, and makes the route that much more enjoyable.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Andy,

While your statement about the moves past the tree providing a headcheck is certainly true, it does not have an effect on the difficulty rating. By difficulty this route is significantly easier than Brinton's, Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective, and Full Stop all of which are probably benchmark 5.6 at DL (however if someone wanted to call Brinton's 5.7 I might not argue with them).
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 24, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Foreplay is 5.5 compared to other similar routes at DL. I think it is much easier than The Bone.
By Andy Bissell
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

James/Jay,

In retrospect, I concur, the potential fall above the tree does not make the route harder. This was my first lead 2 weekends ago(not counting the 5.2 SW corner of Leaning Tower which I lead 20 mins before this route) and it was really a great time. I plan to lead Full Stop when I'm at the Lake next and really look for the differences in the crux moves. I've never been up Push-Mi Pull-U, False Perspective or Brinton's (this route is always plugged). I've done Full Stop a few times and I can think of a couple moves that are harder than Foreplay. You guys are right, it is 5.5, I just can't help but remember the first time I thruchted my way to the top of this route and thought it was super hard. The exposure on the last two moves is not to be missed!
By Ta-Chi Wang
May 24, 2009

This 5.6 is perhaps the easiest 5.6 I've ever done at DL. It's even easier than another 5.5, Pine Tree D at the Railway. But I think it really doesn't matter; insofar as the rating goes, does much of those 'moderate,' 5.9-below leading routes at DL really matter anyway? It's a great route by any measure.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 25, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This is a fantastic little lead! Great gear and a variety of features.
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 15, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This thing needs a better description, it's a classic that deserves to be on the ticklist of every visiting leader.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2014

All you James.