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Foreman Ferris 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Leo Henson, 10/94
Page Views: 820
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: pushing through the crux

Description 

Scramble to the large ledge and clip the first bolt. The climbing gets thin as you move higher to the second bolt, with a nervous clip (as you might brush the ledge if you fall). This starts the crux sequence of smearing your feet and crimping your fingers. The crux continues from the moment you reach the start of the patina until you successfully reach the end of the black surface.

FYI- This route is rated 5.11b in the guidebooks, yet I have seen 5.12 climbers fall from the second and third bolts. Once you've mastered the sequence the route is obviously easier, yet still sandbagged at 5.11b especially compared to other similar Red Rocks climbs.


Location 

This route climbs the right side of the large black spot (look a bit like Australia mate...) up a seam, and continues to the anchors.

Protection 

Five bolts to the anchors.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hard and extremely sequential. The difficulty took the fun out of it. It's hard!
By david wilson
Nov 2, 2008

kind of disagree with the description. crux is lower ,before patina.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 22, 2009

I agree con senor Wilson por beta... I also thought this route was hard as sh*t for an 11! A fine route nonetheless...
By Ryan Angelo
Apr 17, 2010

An awesome climb...the crux is entering the varnished area. It is tricky and has a very specific sequence to it. Figure out the moves and have a blast on it. This is one of the hardest onsights you will find in Calico Hills.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 9, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

On 2/8/11, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and equipped them with Fixe double ring hangers. The first bolts hanger and core were also replaced (1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece).
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

for those interested in climbing this route but dont climb the grade, its easy to boulder the start, then hike up the ramp, hang a left at the top and drop a rope on this one (and the .10 to its left as well).

i remember this thing being wicked hard at .11b, but its been years since i've been on it.
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Sep 17, 2012

Agreed with David, the crux is most def the sandy white rock around the second bolt, clipping the second felt like the crux for me. The patina is pretty straight forward. Amazing fun!