"Chinese Freedom and this route share the same start. Climb the start of "Chinese Freedom" and traverse up and left from the hueco 15ft off the deck. Once established on a ledge climb up the bolt line through difficult hold finding. At a sloped right facing edge, traverse straight left and up to the chains. Most people find the traverse sequence to be somewhat tricky.. Fun edge filled climbing. Definitely one of the better 5.10's on the winter wall. Loose rock often lurks by the chains so beware!
Jeff Move resting on Foreign Affairs. 2006.
|By Adam Therneau|
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Pretty fun, but sharp and akward at the very top.
|By Jeff Kolehmainen|
From: Eagan, MN
May 14, 2008
Do the direct start and it adds a couple hard moves and gives this route a definite feel or its own rather than starting with Chinese Freedom. Give it a shot.
|By Glenn Burns|
From: St. Paul, MN
May 20, 2008
arno ilgner did the direct start and made it look easy... i could barely get off the ground... its definitely there and a lot of fun.
|By Bob Kryzer|
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Anybody know how hard the moves are if you take the right-facing sloping edge up on top? I always climb up to that section then remember I had to go left, then down climb and traverse left then up.