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Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
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Exposed 
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Forearm Frenzy 
Half crack 
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Unsorted Routes:

Forearm Frenzy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,158
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Oct 29, 2007
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Ladd Raine making the moves off of the crescent mo...

Description 

More overhanging then it looks!

Start on the biggest wall at the bottom of a right diagonal crack that has huge jugs and handjams, layback your way up the crack to gain the horizontal, once here traverse right 15 ft then find your way up the cruxy part to the top , a real full-value climb! Dont forget your small cams for the crux.


Location 

Obvious line up the biggest wall in the middle of the cliff.


Protection 

Sucks up gear, remember to extend the lower stuff.



Photos of Forearm Frenzy Slideshow Add Photo
Nuria making her way through the crux.
Nuria making her way through the crux.
Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
BETA PHOTO: Z Wall - Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
Ladd Raine setting the last of the pro before the final moves.
Ladd Raine setting the last of the pro before the ...
Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.
Ladd making the 1st moves up the diagonal crack.
Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow
BETA PHOTO: Forearm Frenzy, Frenzy Direct - Chatfield Hollow
Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.
Ladd finishing up the hand-traverse.
Nuria making it look easy.
Nuria making it look easy.
Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting himself into.
Sam Todzia taking a look at what he is getting him...
Jay Peterson on the initial crack
Jay Peterson on the initial crack
Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.
Sam Todzia clipping the crux gear.
Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
BETA PHOTO: Forearm Frenzy, Chatfield Hollow
Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.
Nuria Anguita-Bates starting up this classic line.
Joe from the Access Fund
Joe from the Access Fund
Comments on Forearm Frenzy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Toby
From: Jackson, WY
Jun 1, 2009

A fun TR variation to this one is straight up the face. The line in the shadow of the tree in this photo, www.mountainproject.com/images/39/32/106283932_large_254dec.>>> A short traverse left to get the block hold was the crux. This start gives the route a more sustained feeling, meeting up in the big horizontal part, before the second crux.

By christopher adams
Feb 25, 2010

Is this not the same climb as Z-crack?

By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I've heard this one get called Z Crack, Zig Zag, and Forearm Frenzy... Once you leave the large horizontal you get into the business and its usually much dirtier.

I've found lots of snake skins in the large horizontal... adds some excitement.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Aug 19, 2011

I nominate this route as the best trad line in CT. It would be a classic anywhere in the world.

By Leif
Dec 11, 2013

this route is so good. I cant believe how many climbers in this state have NOT lead this. It should be numero uno on every CT climber's tick list. LEAD IT!